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Coaxial or Midrange for front doors? 2015 Mazda Non Bose.

12K views 34 replies 5 participants last post by  Cere@lKiller 
#1 ·
I dont think the Mazda Sport came with the Bose system - heck, I dont even know where the amp to it is hiding.
I have a center speaker grill - but I think its empty... or the original owner took it out?

Im the 2nd owner, and I think the original driver left me some really shitty speakers - especially on the passenger side.
I can hear the tweeter up by front on the driver side.. but the passenger side is very weak and the bass cracks up with volume bad- I think in his haste to leave me some shitty speakers he screwed up the negative and positive on the speaker wires. So maybe its a simple fix.

Regardless, if thats not the sound issue and I do need new speakers:

Should I get a set of Mid-range speakers for the front doors and use the stock tweeters and the factory connectors to those tweeters... I assume if I connect the "new" mid-range into the door the connection to the stock tweeter is done.

For the rear doors - co-axial?

Maybe Co-axial all around?

Thanks in advance.
 
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#4 ·
:laugh:

Maybe I was suggesting to use a 3 component speaker set up in the front doors. Woofer, mid and tweeters. :wink2:
It does not have to be costly and the end result depends on the individual and how picky your are about the sound. Higher end and speakers are just more efficient but you can still get great sound improvements on a budget.

I am a Audiophile and have built custom auto sound systems since the early 80's. So my pickiness is on the extreme level. :nerd:

Find the component system that meets your project funding and match them to a good amplifier. The first thing to consider is what is the most important thing you want out of the sound system.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Honestly do some careful consideration and read the several reviews on the top ten components systems that meet your budget.
Please notice that a few seem to repeat at the top of the list. I have tried many of them and can say most of the review are somewhat accurate. If you don't see a suggested component set that people or shops may recommend there are reasons why. The Audiophile market is wide as speaker choices but recommended speaker choice IMHO the quality of sound that some hear in what they have for their cars speakers tends to somewhat fall on those with tone deaf ears. lol Do your research if you can't exchange or return your choice in speakers be more careful of what you choose . :nerd:
I would not go with other speaker suggestions unless you can personally hear them in a vehicle similar to yours. In the end you may like them at first but they will grow tiresome as you find them less then what you want in the sound quality.:nerd:
Amps>
You can not go wrong with Rockford Fosgate amps no matter what you choose in speakers. :grin2:

While you were quick to point out the cost of my speaker choice you didn't read that I went through a few less expensive speaker choices that did not have the sound quality I was wanting. Unfortunately better sound cost more money and there is NO SHORT CUTS to this. BTW I could not afford the speakers I really would like to have and settled for those in my project. :wink2:

Just so we understand... I not only sold auto speaker components as well helped design and install custom speaker systems but also played in a band for a few years. To Bragg before there were stereo contests Eric Burdon once sat in my steroed out 82 Camaro and was set back at the sound of his own bands music and him singing.:grin2:
 
#7 ·
I dont need audiophile level equipment in my car. Anything is better than the tin cans I have now.
I went with this setup:
(1)Pair MB QUART FSB216 6.5" 280 Watt Car Audio Component Speakers
(1)Pair MB QUART FKB116 6.5" 240 Watt 2-Way Car Audio Speakers

I just dont see any other deal around locally that I can get ALL of my speakers for $70 with free shipping and free returns.

I had great experience with MB Quart Co-axials before in the past.
If anyone is interested, December 2018: https://www.ebay.com/itm/302754360859

so now the question is where do I put the crossover?
 
#8 ·
So I guess because you choose a 2 way system instead of the recommended 3 way in the doors you are going to have a separate sub-woofer?
Mazda's door design configuration do not do well with the sound imaging with 2 ways trying to use the woofer/mid in the the door for low HZ(-300HZ) sound reproduction.

Suggested mounting locations for the cross overs are under the rear seat or up under the dash.

Good luck with your project. :nerd:
 
#11 · (Edited)
Mounting any *crossover component in any door:
This is a bad idea for numerous reasons on a daily driver.

Technically you really want to mount a crossover component as close to the amp as possible. However we all know that is not always an easy task. So the better choice considerations are under rear or front seat. If that is not possible then under the dash and when that is not possible in one of the covered panel interior panels NOT exposed to outside weather like the inside of a door.
To each his own regarding this subject, but I can tell you in my shops (also many of my friends who own/operate Auto Sound shops) now matter who is authorized to do an install no one mounts crossover component in the doors!!!!


*crossover component:
Not a single cap or coil but a complete passive or active component system.
 
#12 ·
Mounting any *crossover component in any door:
This is a bad idea for numerous reasons on a daily driver.
I've been doing it for years, decades, even. So long as they're sealed from the elements, they're fine.

Technically you really want to mount a crossover component as close to the amp as possible.
Nope. You want the chokes, caps, and resistors as *close* to the drivers as possible. That way you avoid long runs of speaker wire which can add resististance, impedance, and all kinds of other nasties which throw off your calculated values for your chosen crossover components. The shorter the run between your passive crossovers and the drivers they're controlling, they more accurate the crossover slopes will be, and the happier the loudspeakers themselves will be.
 
#14 ·
I think he means stick them between the interior door panel and the metal... not on the other side where the rain and all is just going drip on them. The crossovers are pretty small.. probably going in the kicker panels INSIDE the interior of the car out of sight. Is this allowed or did I break rule #454352 of the galactic audio frequency committee? Im not in any sound competition with anyone.
 
#15 · (Edited)
If that is what he meant he should have said so. IMHO on forums we all should never interpret what someone writes, not guess what there meaning is only read what is stated and not presumed ?
If you must place component crossovers in the door then obviously the way you found this information on the internet :wink2: would be the way to install them. But I would highly recommend not to seal them with hot glue,silicone, duck tape, or chewing gum!
I am trying to get use to your style of responding...between sarcasm and just being funny. Like myself we can not see the person so have no idea the rest of what is needed in human communication like face expressions and body language to understand the full language of communication.

My recommendation are not for a stereo used necessarily in any competition but I can tell you there is a lot of junk stereo equipment on the market and people that really do not understand how to make a good quality sound system even on an extreme budget. They make all kinds of mistakes mis matching parts and wondering why the speakers blow or in the end sounds like shit!
As I keep saying many times in several threads on this forum and others I DONT post in any thread or give any kind of help unless I PERSONALLY have used the parts recommending, done the service or know the empirical facts about something.

So if you look yes you did break "rule #454352 of the galactic audio frequency committee" sub paragraph "A" which states better to do it your way and experiment then listen to some that have experience? :laugh: :nerd:
 
#20 ·
If i get your drift ...all forums are the same no matter what the platform is. There are those that are basically DIY and try there best to support and then there are a very few that do things for a living and try to fit in but often are the outsider, that challenges "TRIBAL Beliefs and MYTHs. :wink2:

I hope you are not one that to drill a hole you drill a whole series of smaller ones and then call it a hole.....that would be IMHO a "honda" or more to the point "RICER" forum so to say! :wink2:

In this thread I have only tried to steer you in a better direction of thought.....:nerd:
 
#22 · (Edited)
Try not to be so be dense :surprise: ( back attacha for the pontificate slur) the picture of the old cross overs was to point out history similar to and talking to another member on this thread! :wink2: The choice of what I used in my MAZDA was clearly pointed out to you that I wanted the BEST affordable speakers after experimenting with other less expensive and quality speakers not meeting my ear for music and gave you suggestions what to do on a budget?
I am sorry you cant see that? Really! :frown2:

Slow down and re-read your thread and try to see the help and not the fixation of the cost of my speakers? :nerd:
 
#23 ·
Should I buy Styrofoam baffle boxes for the speakers?

I took out the rear speakers so far yesterday and my gosh are these mazda door panels made out of paper or what?

I kinda want to save the OEM connector to the speaker... or maybe I shouldn't.
 
#24 ·
Styrofoam changes the sound of a speaker...just keep that in mind.
If your door speakers may get moisture you should do something to protect them. If the door wind felts and weather stripping are in good shape there is actually very little water that gets into the doors. The small amount that dose drains out the bottom.
I think I and a few other members have mention the lack of any real sound deadening material in MAZDA vehicles. It is NOT that they are "thin" or "made of paper" they are engineered to regulation for side impact and have structural reinforcing.
A few thought out additions with any sound deadening materiel can make a big difference in the sound and you would only need to spend very little for both front doors.
https://www.fatmat.com/shop/fatmat-cat_23456

There are a couple ways to retain the factory speaker connection. Use a connector adapter of use a quality wire splice.
If you splice I recomend to use liquid tape to seal them up.

Line Cable Auto part Technology Automotive window part


Product Material property Tire Spray
 
#26 ·
Wow! :laugh: this might be considered to be a TROLL by all definitions? This is not anything except an observation and the defining term of what is a forum TROLL! :wink2:


If used properly and as designed following the manufacture installation guide those connector work very well for a simple and good splice.
Try re-reading all the information response DUDE!!!:rolledeyes:

When I give recommendation I look at the member. Perhaps you should as well?
The thing with customer service is knowing what a customer can afford,what their abilities are and the best product to serve their need based on those observation.
At least my rule is if I have not personally used something or done a procedure I dont advise or recommend things.
All really any member on any forum needs to do is research the members posting and you can learn a lot! :wink2:
 
#27 ·
If used properly and as designed following the manufacture installation guide those connector work very well for a simple and good splice.
No. They don't. Not once. Ever. The fact you think ScotchLok connectors work well is a testament to your utter lack knowledge regarding automobile wiring. I would rather use a wire nut in a car, which is a BIG no-no, than those things.

At this point, I'm no longer going to respond directly to any of your crazy off of the wall comments.
 
#29 ·
yoooo deadfish little dude ...my stereo project started out by replacing the bose 3.5 speakers with a set of pioneers 36 bucks, JLAudio 75 bucks and JBL 60 bucks.
I then bought a generic MTX sub woofer for 150 bucks..
ran it off an existing amp I had . :laugh:
I realized after installing the speakers it was still not what I wanted in the sound quality and began to experiment with different speakers. I was fortunate enough through my connection to be able to try out different speakers until I concluded I was not going to get off cheap for the reproduction in sound quality I wanted.

So yes I went cheap just like you but desided I want something more. :wink2:

I realize now that the beginning of my stereo upgrade was not posted on this forum in my thread but another forum. Maybe had I filled in the history of the project you would have been less blinded by what I paid in the end for my choice of speakers?:laugh:
 
#30 · (Edited)
Listen M3RacerX you little donkey... not only in my thread but in many others on here you come off as some pompous aspie douche.

You pontificate like Sheldon Cooper would if he was jacking off Stephen Hawkin in the morgue while discussing Thermal energy to his dead corpse and wonder why he isn't responding?

You turn nearly every thread into your own personal fapping station of mazda project accomplishments. I'm glad you have boxed in your own "projects" thread... stay there please.

I'm not you.. nor do I have the connections to "try" many different speakers to see which sounds good. None of us are like you, nor do we need to know your accomplishments with pics from what seems like decades ago.

I bet if this was a NFL football discussion forum you would sit there and every single day remind us of your amazing high school career at Polk High School. Four touchdowns, right?

Maybe you are the type of douche who returns everything you buy or does 6 months of research before acting on a project. I could only imagine the hell you must put a customer service agent through at any automobile related company. I bet you are responsible for multiple deaths and hearing loss.

I just came here for answers that are direct and to the point, not go on a trip down your own personal memory lane.

If anyone wants further details.. they will ask... you dont need to tell us your grandfatherly, pepperidge farms remembers, member berries of age old information... with pics.

In another thread, I asked about window visors and you jump in and proceed to show off some device that probably many of us have never heard of... nor requested, nor the outcome of your scientific findings... plus - guess what I dont care.

The guy above you named a company and said they are easy to install.. that was good enough for me.. I don't need NASA and a private wind tunnel to determine if it was a good $20-$60 purchase.

You sir are the equivalent to an aspie troll... the worst of the worst.

I respect that you do know allot about cars... but you need to learn some tac when it comes to communicating with other humans. You come off as a douche, sir. Take this entire post as constructive criticism peppered with insults. Fine.

But, You think you know my mechanical abilities based off of 6-8 posts on this entire website? Wow, learn some social skills before you shoot off dead Stephen Hawkins.

Kindly get off this website for a month... I dare you to.. go outside and see the sun.. hell go on a drive.

Or go ahead and sit there and fap to your latest posting on here... maybe you will get something stickied... I bet that will be a massive accomplishment... I bet it will be like Glenn Quagmire first discovering porn on the internet. But start your own thread and post it there.
 
#33 ·
Yeah, that guy was a complete cancer.

This forum, while never super traffic heavy, had some really good and engaging posts at least two or three times a week. Since that bastard drove many of the great posters away, it's all but a desert now, and I hate that. :(

So sad.

Oh, and Deadfish, MB Quarts are terrific speakers for the money! :)
 
#35 ·
I love good sounding music, but I don't know much about wiring it up or proper installation. I took it to a professional and listened to them on what would work best.

The place is called Al & Ed's and it got pretty costly, but the system sounds amazing. Huge improvement over the Bose stock setup, even without a sub installed.

They installed an AudioControl LC8 processor (under front driver seat), Alpine PDR-V75 amp (under front passenger seat) (4 100 watt lines and 1 350 watt line out for the sub that is currently unused), Focal 6.5" flax series speakers up front and normal Focal 6.5" speakers in the rear with the tweeters in the dash and rear seats. They left the front center dash speaker alone. Much better clarity and crisper/less muddy bass output. The high notes can get dangerous if you have the volume turned up.

Also, adding DynaMat or soundproofing to the doors and hatch makes a huge difference.. Well worth it, if you plan on upgrading the sound components. It doesn't cost much either and is a great upgrade, even if you have the stock setup. It fixed all of my rattling issues in the doors too. The only thing that still rattled was that plastic flap that goes over the screw behind the inner door handle. A little double sided tape fixed that.. luckily.
CK
 
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