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Anyone broke this before?

6K views 17 replies 5 participants last post by  setoniukas 
#1 ·
So it's been few day when i had this accident where i bent trailing arm and pulled half way front lower control arm. Today i went under to check again and found some more damages.






And here is from today find damages










I looked up this engine cradle from OEM cost around 750 and then the rest around 500 my insurance deductable is 500 so just wonder what they going to do here
 
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#2 · (Edited)
I looked up this engine cradle from OEM cost around 750 and then the rest around 500 my insurance deductable is 500 so just wonder what they going to do here
Well, if ins. accepts your claim the damaged parts are going to be replaced and you are going to be charged $500. :tongue:

Realistically I say you are easily looking at $2K in parts and labor to fix it. It could be done for less if you do the work yourself but its going to be a big job and its going to need an alignment afterwards.
 
#3 ·
Insurance took my car already and i'm ok with paying 500 not 1500 for parts but no word yet from them what they going to do with it, will have to call and check what is going on.

I have lifetime alignment so that's not a problem and the shop who will fix it should do that before they give me the car back.
 
#4 ·
Guess what, they will start work on it just monday...

Because they missed the engine cradle (subframe) in the first place so it took them so long to get all parts...

Basically from the day they took the car from my garage, it's been a month how there is not work done on my car, sounds like awesome insurance company right :D
 
#6 ·
If all the bolts come out the labor actually isn't as much as you think. It's feasible that it could be in and out of the shop in a day or two if they have all the parts on hand. Even quicker if they can source a used subframe with all the trimmings and just drop the old assembly out out and bolt the new one in.
 
#7 ·
My guess is that they didn't totaled it because they missed the broken subframe part and went with fixing it, so it seemed like cheap fix for them but then when all the work was approved and body shop lifted car and found subframe broken insurance company had no choice but fix that too. I just hope they won't put some 04-05 used parts in it
 
#9 · (Edited)
^Yep. I've heard of cars being declared totaled after the body shop had already torn the car apart and started repairs on it.

You may not like it but the insurance co. can, at its discretion, install used parts on your car.

The big thing is once they fix it they usually have you sign off on the repairs before you take the car. Don't do this if you aren't pleased with the work.
 
#11 ·
Once they call me that the car is ready, i will check under the car before i sign anything, will check the statement on what work was done and what parts was used, i'm sure body shop will have sheet with list of what parts they used and what year they are and i'll ask if i can do test drive before i sign off
 
#12 ·
Will have to open this one,just to ask something you guys.

It's been few years, replaced lower control arms twice,tie rods and axle shaft once on driver side. After this winter, some clunking noises started to come out from the front every time i drive over any uneven road. So this past weekend, while changing engine oil, i was looking at LCA's, tie rods and axle shafts, noticed that the one on drivers side has slight movement, in and out from transmission, no oil leaking from it. So my question is, is there some damage done inside transmission,where the axle shaft locks in,since it's the side,which took the hit on the accident day.

What you guys think is the issue here?
 
#14 ·
Took another look there and if i'm not wrong, i might need new spindle knuckle with bearing. At first i thought only bearing would do the fix, but then i remembered that i have changed them on both sides at the same time and that was year ago and now only the driver side is moving a bit when moved side to side.
 
#15 ·
It's more likely that the bearing failed. Over the past year or two we've had bad luck with aftermarket bearings, no matter what brand we use some of them seem to go bad prematurely. It could also be that the axle nut has backed off a little allowing the bearing to become loose, try tightening it. I have yet to have to replace a knuckle assembly to cure a loose wheel bearing though if the hub is damaged that could cause issues.
 
#16 ·
Ok, so i finally know that i need new bearing, but my question is. is it really axle nut need to be torqued to 190 - 202 ft-lbs? Cause before i have done this and i found that it only needs 20 - 25 ft-lbs, so which is the correct one?
 
#17 ·
If it's an axle nut and not a bolt then the 190 - 202 ft-lbs is most likely correct though as always, look it up to confirm. The axle nut literally holds the bearing and hub together, if it's under-torqued then the bearing can become loose. I've yet to see a torque spec under 80ftlbs for an axle nut.
 
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