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Too much to do, not enough time...

5K views 12 replies 4 participants last post by  sskooter90 
#1 ·
Hello, my name is Scott, new to this forum (I do not have much experience in forums, so forgive me for any wrong doings). I have a 2005 3s MT hatch that I blew up (oops). The car experienced a large drop in power, and loud knocking noise, cylinders that have loss in compression (1-2 share, 3-4 share), oil in the cylinders, and I witnessed meal shavings in oil when drained. So I've got some questions (important highlighted in red, I don't know how to "shorthand"):

Seems to me that I spun a bearing(s) and blew the head gasket when the compression raised due to the offset piston...? First, what is the easiest way to remove the engine? I see in manuals to drop it from underneath, but some forums say to remove from up top. Second, I'm trying to decided to rebuild or replace. If I rebuild, I don't know how many part are still viable. Is the block, crank, camshafts ruined due to metal shavings... I dunno. Can a catastrophic failure like me... em, I mean this, be rebuilt? I'm more leaning towards buying a different block. I plan on doing refresh on the new block (bearings, rings, timing). Issue is, I don't know what fits. I don't feel like doing a swap (2.5L I've read about), rather just another 2.3. But what years? Every where I look I see 04-05 and 06-08 used engines. What's the difference? It seems I can't just drop it in, so if it is possible, what years will work in the 05 and what needs to be done for it to work (sensors, cams, and such)? Also, can a AT block work for a MT? What needs to be done to be able to swap them?

I've tried searching for them myself (seems that people get irritated about "repeats") but, as like everyone else, I am busy and can't spend hours diligently looking at a list of possible solutions. I can find bits and pieces of what I'm looking for, but no definitive answers. I have experience rebuilding engines, but only on old V8s like a chevy 350 and an Olds 455, so this swapping engines, sensors and crap are confusing to me. Again, please forgive my wrong doings here. I am happy if the replies are just links to threads that answers my questions.

Thank you!
 
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#4 ·
Fair enough. I've been researching on the 2.5 fusion swap. Seems to have its complications but is rewarding when finished correctly. The block is cheaper and more power. Found what the major difference compared to 06+ 2.3's is the same with the 2.5 swap: the intake cam timing cog. Money is a factor. Reason I wanted to know quickly is because I have a chance for a wrecked 06 3s HB that I was thinking about pulling the engine. But reading on how the 2.3's are kinda junky (didn't know that when I bought it), I'm actually considering the 2.5.

I wouldn't mind if somebody would let me know how their transplants have gone. I will reply to the one I'm reading when I'm finished if updates aren't present. Currently reading "04 2.3l swap to 2.5l successful" and having a grand time going through the many pages (holy crap!)
 
#5 ·
We're on our 4th Mazda 3 with 2.3 engines. My 2004 Mz3 hatch had 108k on it when I sold it, and I beat on that car. Never missed a beat. They are good engines, but can only take so much.
If money is a consideration, find a good low mileage engine and swap it in.
 
#8 ·
Thanks Bill. That does seem like a decent deal. Will contact them to see about warrantee and such. I see that it's labeled as a 2003. Will that swap in without mods? I ask because I search for the engine for the 05 and only 04-05 engines pop up...

Time isn't really a consideration. The car has been sitting for about a year. It blew and I had a lot going on, so parked it, bought a buddies beater civic, and between the civic, a truck, and my motorcycle, I've been dealing. But now that I've got some time but not a lot of money (choose one!) I'm itching to get the hatch back on the road. Point being, I've got time to mess with it. Initially I thought the 2.5 was gonna be more expensive (reason I didn't want to firstly), but after reading into it, it appears it might cost the same(ish) for a seemingly better engine. Just takes time to make sure one doesn't make any costly mistakes and to fiddle with it.
 
#9 ·
I would *assume* that it will fit, but don't know for sure. Do your Due diligence before you commit. Nothing worse than a $1200 paperweight.
At least you have another car to drive for now, so you don't have to make a hasty decision.
 
#12 · (Edited)
I'm back (but not in black)

Hey, guys. Appreciate all the help years ago with this. The car sat for awhile longer, then I finally found a 2012 Ford 2.5 with 30,000 or so on it for $600. Went to work swapping it approx a year ago. Boy was it, and still is, an adventure. It swapped in just fine. Had to use the stock timing cover, oil pan, and intake manifold, and some sensors. IT RUNS TOO!

The biggest problem I had was when I went to start it, it ran for a good 5 min or so, then died. Ok. Went to try again and it would just sputter, maybe start then die again. Weird. Let it sit for a day. It'll start, then die again, then continue to not start. Darn. Starting poking around the interwebs and found that a bad Variable Valve Timing Solenoid (clogged or something) was preventing it from running. I'm thinking it was timing the intake cam for cold start, and wouldn't let it time back to a leaner mixture? Anyway, it runs.

I did swap the cog on one of the camshafts (don't remember now since it was awhile ago. There's a cog that the camshaft sensor picks up. It has to read it rather than the Ford's to run correctly. Some swap the whole cam, I opted to swap the cog. I gently scored some non-essential surfaced on the two shafts at the same spots and the cog so I could align them correctly. I used a small rubber hammer to fit in on the Ford's camshaft. Again, works great.

I took out the locating dowels in the intake manifold and had to slightly enlarge the holes so that the manifold would fit over the ports. I used clean engine oil and lightly oiled the rubber gaskets to see where they landed while test fitting. Then I RTV'd around the exterior of the manifold to hopefully prevent any vacuum leaks. It works just fine.

I did put a new a new clutch assembly and replaced motor mounts. I had to buy new halfshafts since I basically ruined the old ones when taking them out. I am in the process of replacing all brakes (it sat for long time). I still have to get the ECU flashed, but I'm waiting on that because I'm kinda wanting to put a turbo on it. But now I'm also at a point where I want to go ahead and change out the suspension since it's half way taken apart anyway. I want to upgrade to stiffer springs, and nice absorbers. Maybe upgrade the sway bar and bushings.

I'm newer to the this end of the car world. I'm used to ordering from JEGS or Summit for parts. What sites and brands do you suggest for upgrades? I don't want to break the bank, but I want nice products to make it corner better. I've seen Corksport some places?

Also, any advice on a turbo? I'm going to start browsing this forum for threads, just thought I'd put that out there.
 
#13 ·
UPDATE

I have completed putting the new 2020 Corksport coilover system underneath it. It went in beautifully. Have not driven on it yet. Also installed the CS short throw plate (shifter bushings are next).

Brakes are nearly complete. Opted to go with OEM replacement rather than a big brake kit. Maybe someday when I increase HP with a turbo, I will put on the BB.

It was running just fine until one day it just turned over and will not start. I am in the process of testing a bunch of sensors to try to find one that is bad. I am stumbling in the dark though. I am used to simpler systems like carburetors on both bikes and cars, so this sensor thing is getting me confused. Is there anybody who knows how to test the sensors? Or have access to a page/PDF of how to test and the reading tolerances of the sensors? If there is a thread for that, please forgive me, just point me in the right direction and kick me.

Thanks.
 
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