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How To: Mazda/Ford 2.5L Swap

211K views 332 replies 46 participants last post by  Jacksonfaulstick 
#1 · (Edited)
This is my work through, and a How-To on swapping a 2.5L into your 2.0/2.3L Mazda3 or 6

I chose to do the 2.5 swap mainly because of the price differences, and the work involved with something other than a direct swap with a 1st gen Mazda 2.3L. This list includes $175 based on LKQ's (eBay) shipping rate.

Mazda 2.3 (04/05)(06-09) - $1375 on average
Ford 2.3 - $725 on average
Mazda 2.5 - $765 on average
Ford 2.5 - $535 on average

So taking that into consideration here is my part breakdown and purchase list. Some of it might not be needed for some of you. I went into this with a do it right the first time mindset.

Engine:

2010 Ford Escape 2.5 w/27k - LKQ (eBay) - $542.98 w/ Shipping

Tuning:

OrangeVirus Tuning Method:
Tactrix Openport 2.0 OBDII Dongle - $171.32
MazdaEdit - $175
OrangeVirus' rate for a custom tune - $99

Parts:

Mazda Clutch Pilot Bearing (YF09-11-303) - $8.91
Mazda Crankshaft Pulley Bolt (LF01-11-406) - $12.44
Mazda Camshaft Washer (LF941242Y) - $9.89
Mazda Timing Cover Seal - (1F2010602) - $10.00
Victor Reinz Main Bearing Gasket (67756) - $33.63
Massive Absolute Precision Cam Timing Tool Set - $29.17
VS50639R1 - Valve Cover Gasket - $14.96
MS97160 - Intake Manifold Gasket - $16.82
MS96901 - Exhaust Manifold Gasket - $16.63
2008Milan 2.5>2.3 Intake Plate - $100
(2.3 to 2.5 engine swap - intake adapter plate - FordFusionClub.com : The #1 Ford Fusion Forum)
31540 - Exhaust Pipe Flange Gasket - $1.60
51516 - Wix Over-sized Oil Filter - $6.91
Castrol 5W-20 Synthetic Oil (5 Quart) - $28.68
Mobil 1 75W-90 Synthetic Transmission Gear Oil (1 Quartx3) - $35.37
Prestone AF2000 Extended Life Antifreeze (Concentrated) - $12.47
Permatex 81160 Hi-Temp Red Gasket Maker - $6.99
Permatex 24200 Blue Thread locker - $4.77

Other (Extras):

EBay Oil Catch Can - $15

GPWerks Balance Shaft Delete Kit - $27.50
Massive RaceSpec EGR Delete System - $31.15

Replacement 3/8 Fuel/Valve Cover Lines - $13.28

DIY Grounding Kit:
8 Gauge Grounding Wire (20ft) - $7.80
8 Gauge Distribution Block - $7.49
8 Gauge Ring Connectors (20) - $8.45

Tan Header Wrap 1/16"X2"X25' - $15.00

BAHNHOF Clutch Kit (EBay) - $87.95
Bahnhof Clutch Disc Bearing Tool Mazda 3 5 Models 2 3L 2 0L | eBay
* Clutch Disc Stage 1
* Bahnhof Release Bearing
* Pilot Bushing
* Alignment Tool

Final Price - $1312.33

Required tools:

Air tools (not needed but highly recommended)
Metric socket set
Metric wrench set
Assortment of socket extensions and adapters
Assortment of Pliers/Cutters/Ect.
Assortment of 1,2,3 Phillips/Robertson/Flathead Screwdrivers
Hammers
(2) Pickle Forks
Prybars and Breaker bars
Engine Hoist
Engine Stand
Torque Wrench

Links:

Mazda3 Workshop Manual

How-To: Mazda/Ford 2.5L Swap
How-To: Mazdaspeed3 Rear Spoiler Install on MZ3 Hatch
How-To: Mazdaspeed3 Transmission Swap
How-To: Mazdaspeed3 Front Sway Bar Install
How-To: Installing an Oil Catch Can
How-To: VICS Removal Guide
How-To: Balance Shaft Delete

*Use my How To in conjunction with the Mazda Workshop Manual and (http://www.mazda3forums.com/61-powertrain-2004-2009-mazda3/647562-04-2-3l-swap-2-5l-successful.html). You should not run into any issues!

This may also be an excellent time to do any suspension maintenance or installs of beefier sway bars.

Step 1: Removal

- Remove your old engine, here's a link to a 6 getting its engine pulled: Mazda 6 and Ford Fusion 2.3L Engine Swap | Happy Wrenching
- Remove your hood
- Remove your engine cover
- Disconnect the 2 harnesses located on the ECU, and the one inside of your fuse box
- Remove battery and its cover
- Remove intake all the way down to the collector below the frame line
you should now have something like this:

- Jack your car up
- Remove your wheels
- Remove all your splash guards (2 fender walls and then the front splash guard)
- Drain your Oil and Transmission fluid
- Remove your axle nuts
- Remove your breaks and zap-strap them to your spring
- Separate both your lower control arm and steering link with 2 pickle forks
- Free your CV shafts from your wheel hub (just pull the hub towards you and the CV shaft should pop free
- Remove your CV Shafts from the transaxle
* Passenger side has a bracket mounted to the engine, 3 bolts to remove here
* Give them a good yank as close to the transmission as possible, the drivers side needed a little more coaxing with a small prybar and wiggle room
- Have a way of containing the differential after you pull the CV Shafts out, or it might slip. I used 2 same sized sockets as placeholders
- Remove your exhaust manifold
* Here I removed the 2 bolts after the 2nd o2 sensor first. They broke on me due to the rust, cut off the stud, and drill them out, and then find yourself some nice stainless hardware so you never have this problem again once it's time for an aftermarket header or catback.
* Move your way on up and disconnect the 2 o2 sensor pigtails on the engine side and let them hang
* Remove the first mounting bracket close to the first catalytic converter
* Remove the hardware holding the manifold to the block
* With the manifold removed from the rest of the exhaust system I was able to push the header as far down to the firewall/cross-member to avoid any conflict with the engine removal process.

- Drain all your coolant and remove coolant lines connected to engine
- Remove your front bumper cover
- Remove your Headlights
- Remove your front crash bar
- Disconnect your fuel line and vacuum line to the master cylinder. Both connections I removed at the firewall.
- Disconnect your clutch slave cylinder and move out of the way
Remove your shifter linkage from the transmission
- Rig up your means of removing the engine
- I unbolted one bolt from the rad support beam just above where the headlight was and that gave me a lot of room for the pull
With the engine supported by the hoist, remove all 3 engine mounts
- Remove your engine slowly, and check for any snags


- Gently pull the engine wiring harness away from your 2.3 and set it aside for your 2.5


Step 2: Disassembly of the 2.5L

- Degrease and clean the longblock
- Remove all sensors (camshaft/crankshaft/oil pressure sender/coolant temp, ect.)
- Remove all accessories (belts, alternator, water pump, tensioner, coil packs, ect.)
- Remove Valve cover
- Remove water distribution block
- Remove Intake manifold
- Remove/Inspect spark plugs (set aside to reuse if wanted)
- Turn engine to TDC
1. M6 bolt should thread through the eye hole on the crank pulley into the timing cover
2. On the left side of the engine there will be a blind plug bolt, remove that and install timing bolt (end of the bolt will rest against the side of the crankshaft)
3. should see the top of the piston on #1 Cylinder
4. Install camshaft plate timing tool into back of camshafts (it will only fit in one way)

- Brace the crankshaft temporarily while you remove the flexplate/flywheel
- Brace the crankshaft

- Remove Crank pulley

-04/05 Instructions-

- Remove timing cover
- Loosen Intake Camshaft Sprocket Nut
- Remove Chain tensioner and left hand tensioner arm, set aside

- Remove Timing Chain, set aside
- Remove 10 Intake Camshaft Bolts, and their caps and set aside in order, along with the Oil Control Valve
- Mark position of both 2.3/2.5 Sprocket locations

- Remove Intake camshaft and remove sprocket, set aside (keep the SST in place as best as possible so the exhaust camshaft doesn't move on you)
- Follow the same procedure (less timing/bracing crankshaft) to remove your 2.3 Intake camshaft
- Remove 2.3 Intake sprocket and replace it with your 2.5 Intake sprocket (hand tighten bolt and align the sprocket to your marks and replace the washer)
- Reinstall 2.3 camshaft at TDC position
*slide back into camshaft SST
*front two lobes on both camshafts should be pointing in each other's general direction
Reinstall camshaft caps/bolts/oil control valve

- Re-check camshaft SST for alignment on both camshafts. Be sure the cam notches are running parallel to the SST!
run timing chain over both sprockets and make sure its tight, and turn the intake camshaft in minor +/- increments for the chain to fall in place. There should be no slack here!

- get your crescent wrench and hold it onto the hex park of the camshaft and keep it from moving as best as possible. then tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt to spec *blue threadlocker*
- Reinstall Tensioner/Tensioner Arm
- Run timing chain back over both tensioner arms and back onto crank sprocket
- Release tension on tensioner
- Re-use your 2.3 timing cover w/ fresh sealant

- Torque to spec:



- End of 04/05 Instructions -

- Replace front oil seal
Install 2.3 Crank Pulley w/ new Crank bolt (and the m6 bolt into timing cover) *Blue threadlocker*
- Torque crank bolt (with your crankshaft still braced) to 76ft-lbs, wait a minute, then tighten an additional 90 degrees
- Remove SSTs (blind plug on the side, camshafts, m6 pulley bolt)
- Remove Crankshaft brace
- Manually rotate the engine 2/4/6 times to double-check timing (crank pulley m6 bolt lines up, camshafts are still running parallel where thee SST was, lobes are pointing at each others general direction, piston at TDC)
- Flip engine over and remove oil pan, oil pickup tube from the 2.5 and replace with your 2.3 pan and pickup tube

*This would be an excellent time to install your Balance Shaft Delete*

scrape off old gasket material and layer on a new layer, torque to spec

- Install Spark Plugs
- Install Valve cover
- Install 2.3 camshaft sensor
- Install Coil Packs
- Replace 2.5 oil pressure sender by oil filter with your 2.3 sender
- Install 2.3 Crank sensor

With the engine at tdc. You position the middle of the face of the crank sensor to the middle of the 5th tooth to the left of the first empty space on the pulse wheel



- Install 2.3 tensioner and water pump pulley (04/05 only)
- Install 2.3 tensioner (06+)
- Install New rear main seal *blue threadlocker on seal bolts*

This is the sleeve (SST). Basically you align it with the crank. the tool slides onto the crank, and you slide the seal towards the block, it will slip onto the crank surface as you pull the sleeve away. Just remember, after you're all said and done, the lip of the seal should be pointing TOWARDS the engine.

- Install Pilot Bearing/Flywheel/Clutch/Clutch Cover *blue threadlocker should be used here*



- Install throwout Bearing on transmission
- Install alternator
- Install Starter
- Install 2.3 water neck
*This would be a good time to run a grounding kit around the engine as well as running lines for an oil catch can*
(HOW-TO: Installing an Oil Catch Can - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum)
- Install 2.5>2.3 Intake adaptor from 2008Milan

- Install Intake/Throttle Body
*This would be a good time to install your EGR Delete and do the VICS Delete*
(The new improved VTCS removal Guide - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum)

- Install 2.3 Water distribution outlet block *be sure use your gasket maker here*



- Start reinstalling your 2.3 engine wiring harness back onto your engine. I started from the crank sensor and worked my way around. Be sure to scrape up those grounds to ensure a good connection!
- Install transmission back onto engine
- Install the majority of the coolant lines back onto the engine
- Double check all your connections/grounds/harnesses!

Install Engine/Transmission Procedure:

- Drop engine into general place
- Install Rear Motor Mount
- Install Passenger Motor Mount
- Install Driver Side Motor Mount
- Install exhaust manifold

- Hook up 2 O2 sensor plugs
- Hook up grounding cable from passenger side frame to 02 sensor bracket
- Disconnect engine from hoist and move out of the way
- Fill engine with oil
*Pour a Small amount, check for leaks, pour some more, check - - again, ect.
- Fill Transmission with oil
- Install clutch slave cylinder onto transmission
- Install shifter linkage
- Re-Bleed clutch
- Re-Check your connections around the starter/transmission
- Finish running your coolant lines

- Fill engine with coolant *Same procedure as engine oil
- Reinstall your fuel/vacuum/Valve cover lines
- Install battery box/ECU back into its place
- Install 3 harnesses back into their places, 2 on the ECU, 1 on the fuse box
- Install Intake w/ MAF and IAT Sensor

1st Start Procedure

*I chose not to hook up my drivelines to the engine in the event of needing to pull the engine back out*

- Pull connections to coil packs
- Turn key to on position and let fuel injectors prime themselves
crank engine at least 10 times to properly lubricate the engine with oil
- Let engine sit for a 5 minutes
- Reinstall coil pack harnesses
- cross your fingers and turn her over!

- Finally, With the engine running keep an eye on any leaks
Watch your coolant level as passage ways are filled with water

- If all is well, reinstall your drivelines AC Compressor, and button her back up!



I hope this thread has helped you. Let me know if there are any discrepancies with it.

- Chris


(PS) Any questions may have already been asked/answered on (http://www.mazda3forums.com/61-powertrain-2004-2009-mazda3/647562-04-2-3l-swap-2-5l-successful.html)

Links:

Mazda3 Workshop Manual

How-To: Mazda/Ford 2.5L Swap
How-To: Mazdaspeed3 Rear Spoiler Install on MZ3 Hatch
How-To: Mazdaspeed3 Transmission Swap
How-To: Mazdaspeed3 Front Sway Bar Install
How-To: Installing an Oil Catch Can
How-To: VICS Removal Guide
How-To: Balance Shaft Delete
 
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25
#4 ·
Excellent write-up. I'm considering an '05 with rod knock and doing the Ford Fusion 2.3L swap but your write up has me thinking about a 2.5L swap. I was surprised when I saw the later 2.5L engines were cheaper so if I can off set the ECU reflash I may go the same direction you did.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
You don't even HAVE to do the ecu flash. I've got 3000 miles on mine with the stock 2.3 ecu and it runs like a champ. The fuel trims and larger injectors handle it fine. You'd make power with an ecu tune though.
 
#8 ·
to the OP you might want add all of the members names that had made this conversion to your original post. Those people including you will help out potential members that would like to do this in the future.

It would be also nice to have the members that did this swap to write down the following:

1. What work well
2. What did not work well
3. Does the swap work flawlessly? (Tune or no-Tune)
4. Current issues with the swap (if there is any issues)

This will help out a lot of members when they do this mod. That they can invest more time in optimizing the swap process vs troubleshooting a "known" issue that one member might have a solution for it already.
 
#9 ·
1. What work well
Mazdato2's writeup is very good, lots of detail. Follow his steps and do a lot of research for yourself as well. The more familiar you are with what you're getting into the better off you will be.

Timing these engines may seem intimidating when you read the writeups, but it's actually extremely simple when you've got it in front of you and can watch the operation of all of the parts.

You've only got one shot to seal up the timing cover and oil pan so make it a good one. Scrape the old RTV off of the cover/pan as well as the mating surface on the block with a razorblade. Before you apply the new RTV, clean the surfaces with a degreaser like carb cleaner, acetone, or high% rubbing alcohol. I used Permatex Ultra Grey, apply it thin but make sure to cover the entire mating surface of the covers. I've got no oil leaks at all. I also installed a new crankshaft seal on the timing cover.

Remove the front bumper, crash bar, and move the rad support. It's a bunch of crap and some people didn't do it, but It'll make dropping it in much easier.

2. What did not work well
Removing the driver's side axle. I pried and pried but it wouldnpt pop loose. Ended up leaving it in place and pulling the powertrain with the axle hanging. This took the differential asplosion out of the equation.

Getting the engine back in is kind of a pain in the ass. I did it by myself and would not recommend. You really really need a helper to pull and reinstall the powertrain, it'll save a ton of time and frustration.

3. Does the swap work flawlessly? (Tune or no-Tune)

It's been established numerous times that the tune is not required. The 2.3 ECU is able to run the 2.5 engine at good AFRs just by adjusting the LTFT. The LTFT is not adjusted far enough to trip the rich/lean trouble code either. It runs smoothly and is powerful through the entire RPM band.

4. Current issues with the swap (if there is any issues)

I've not had any issues with my swap whatsoever. No trouble codes, even on the first start. I've averaged 25 mpg over a few thousand miles with lots of spirited driving.
 
#13 ·
@r2rrita. Im not too certain who all have completed this swap. I do know of a few that I reached out to when I started writing this how-to; from what ive seem (antics, zoomtictac, madmatt) are fairly active on the original swap thread. And are usually quicker than i am to respond to a question lol.

Tuning Questions: No, the tune isn't necessary.. But, there is a noticeable difference between the stock tune to the 87 tune and to a 92 tune.

Stock 2.3 tune w/ 2.5: 496km to a tank (CEL for rich at Idle P1887? or something)
87 Tune: 520km to a tank (fuel economy tune)
92 tune: 490km to a tank (spirited driving w/power baised tune) surprises me each time i put my foot into it

In my opinion, If you have the time with the ECU out of the car, send it away for the base tune, Its $99. The car will run more efficiently, and you'll have better fuel economy. (thats if you are going to keep the car)
 
#16 ·
@r2rrita . Im not too certain who all have completed this swap. I do know of a few that I reached out to when I started writing this how-to; from what ive seem (antics, zoomtictac, madmatt) are fairly active on the original swap thread. And are usually quicker than i am to respond to a question lol.

Tuning Questions: No, the tune isn't necessary.. But, there is a noticeable difference between the stock tune to the 87 tune and to a 92 tune.

Stock 2.3 tune w/ 2.5: 496km to a tank (CEL for rich at Idle P1887? or something)
87 Tune: 520km to a tank (fuel economy tune)
92 tune: 490km to a tank (spirited driving w/power baised tune) surprises me each time i put my foot into it

In my opinion, If you have the time with the ECU out of the car, send it away for the base tune, Its $99. The car will run more efficiently, and you'll have better fuel economy. (thats if you are going to keep the car)
who did your tune?
 
#20 · (Edited)
I am right in the middle of this swap and waiting for my engine and trans to be delivered.

I also couldn't get the driver's side axle out prior to pulling the engine. I used my 1 Ton Engine Crane that had plenty of stick to clear the rad support but I did pull the bumper skin.

Like others I bought a Ford 2.5L "A" vin engine that has 41K miles. Since my original trans has 170k miles I opted for a lower mile trans from LKQ. Since I bought the engine and trans from them I got a discount and paid less than $1k for the pair (shipped).

I've done engine and trans swaps on Subarus so I wasn't intimated tackling this job. Of course I'll re-evaluate that once the new engine arrives and I get the timing done.

So far the most difficult part was making a brace to break the crank bolt loose (I needed 2 pieces of flat stock). I finally got ahold of Milan08 and scored one of his adapter plates...I didn't want to take a chance with using silicone, etc to close any gaps between the intake and head. More to come once I get her put back together.

I forgot. ..I contacted Orangevirus about a $99 base tune and they told me they didn't offer that option. I'm going with the 2.3L ECU and 2.5L injectors as recommended by others who have done this swap successfully.
 
#21 ·
Nice, good find on the engine/trans. Good call on getting that intake adapter plate, no messing around with it in the end. Id hate to pull of the intake more than needed. What did you decide for a clutch?

As for the tune, I guess things have changed on their end since ive talked to them initially about it.
 
#23 ·
I used the Exedy Stage 1 and it's good. Pedal is a bit heavyier than stock but not obnoxiously heavy and takeup is smooth.

There was a guy selling an Exedy Stage 1 ceramic disk clutch on here a while back, I would have bought it in a heartbeat when I was doing my swap. Might be worth looking to see if he's still got it.
 
#25 ·
People do that as preventative maintenance. If it starts leaking down the road it's much more difficult to replace. A leaking rear main can also contaminate your clutch.
 
#31 · (Edited)
Thanks for adding the picture and detail. I'll get the gasket from Mazda since the one from Rock Auto didn't come with the tool.

On a separate note, neither intake cams had the thin $12 washer. I know it didn't fall out...I did the disassembly on the work bench.
Consider those diamond washers for the cams as a revision by mazda. My 05 didn't have them, but on the 06+ you do see them.

Also, the part number I listed at the top is the one I used (and it came with the sst). Thats if you don't want to pay oem prices. 15,000k on the gasket and no leaks (http://www.amazon.com/Victor-Reinz-67756-Rear-Main/dp/B008PLGAR8)
 
#33 ·
Did you use the 2.5l coil packs and boots on your swap? The 2011 Fusion 2.5l I got has 2 wire coil packs and my 2006 2.3l MZR coil packs are 3 wire. I also cannot use the 2011 valve cover with the old coil packs since the mounting holes do not line up.

I'm also unsure if the timing cover would need to be swapped from my 2006 2.3l to the 2011 2.5l, they appear to be identical.

You didn't by chance happen to get any pictures of the crankshaft position sensor mounted on either engine did you?
 
#34 ·
The 2.5 i received had its valve cover cracked and the coil packs removed, so yes i reused my 2.3 coilpacks and valve cover. I did have to notch out the very center of the valve cover to accommodate the water temperature sensor since it sticks-out farther than the plane of the valve cover.

I didnt take pictures but i will update the procedure. With the engine at tdc, the bolt for the crank pully installed into the valve cover, you position the middle of the face of the crank sensor to the middle of the 5th tooth to the left of the first empty space on the pulse wheel



Did you get a Mazda 2.5 then? if the valve cover and crank pulley is identical you dont have to touch anything, replacing the valve cover is more to do to having the crank sensor, idler pulley, alternator mount, ect. in the correct mounting spots along with the process of replacing the intake cam/adding friction washers and the general procedure of a 04/05 year type swap.

Unless you want to replace gaskets/seals/and check the overall condition of the engine, then you would want to crack it open.

If you are unsure, you can always take a few pictures for us to confirm too.
 
#37 · (Edited)
My 2.5L did not come with coils so I'll be using the 2.3s. I planned on using a dremmel to cut clip on the sensor Ford puts in the 2.5L head vs. Drilling a hole in the 2.3L valve cover. 6 or 1 half dozen...either way.

For Mazdat02 and Antics, did you use the Ford knock sensor? The clip is the same as my '05 harness. Did you use the Ford PCV or Mazda?

These are two things I wouldn't want to replace with the engine in the car.
 
#38 ·
I used the Mazda PCV valve because the flexible rubber hose to connect to the intake manifold was easier to work with. The Ford knock sensor plugged up fine so I left it, haven't gotten any trouble codes from it.
 
#39 ·
Here is how the crank pos sensor lined up on the Ford timing cover:


Another angle:


How cam timing lined up before and after crank pulley install:


What sensor is this and is it installed correctly? (I am not 100% sure that went on right)


Thousands of shavings this size in my oil pan:
 
#42 ·
Here is how the crank pos sensor lined up on the Ford timing cover:

How cam timing lined up before and after crank pulley install:

What sensor is this and is it installed correctly? (I am not 100% sure that went on right)

Thousands of shavings this size in my oil pan:
the crank sensor looks like is aligned properly (and as antics says. Its diffenerent from ours), along with your cams. That other sensor is installed correctly, but i have no idea what it technical name is.. (Mazda parts says its a condenser?) lol I hope those shavings arent from your new engine! :frown:
 
#41 ·
Your crankshaft position sensor is different than mine. I guess that was another change in 06. I did a little researching, 04 and 05 models used a sensor like this



The mounting arms are too short for the Ford timing cover holes. The position of the sensor is also a little farther away when you put on the 2.3 crankshaft pulley too. I remember someone ran into problems trying to mount the 04-05 sensor on the Ford engine without changing the timing cover. 06 cars are seriously easier to swap.

I'm not sure what that little sensor on the timing cover is either, but I installed it the same way you did. The little metal tab in the slot with a bolt through it. My 2.5 engine had an idler pulley there I think.
 
#46 ·
Just a question for those that have swapped in a 2.5l, has anyone also dropped in an aftermarket cat-back exhaust?

I can't imagine there being THAT much difference in performance compared to a stock 2.3l, but my stock exhaust system has 130k+ miles on it and I don't expect it to last forever.

Kinda hoping something aftermarket and stainless for longevity for under $500 with a low tone, quiet would be fine too as I have a 2 hour+ commute everyday and frequent long highway trips.
 
#48 ·
I was either going to but a OEM MS3 catback or a Racing Beat catback. I ended up getting a MS3 CB because of the price ($110 used)
I really don't see these systems providing anything other than a different sound and a very very mild performance gain on N/A cars.
Maybe if it was boosted w/ 3" piping all the way through, then that would be a different story.
But as antics said, it isn't a maintenance item. Unless your cat is toast and need to pass emissions; that would be the only thing I could see needing replacement.
 
#47 ·
Exhausts are not really a maintenance item. If you want to replace it for the sound that's one thing but I'm sure there is nothing wrong with it and it'll last many many more years.
 
#49 ·
I've been under the car enough to know that there is significant rust-through on the piping and muffler.

I live in IL, and even though this year has been mild we typically see a lot of road salt from December through March.

In the old days if my car had exhaust issues I would cut off the section of pipe or cut off the muffler and just weld in whatever I needed to get the car to not sound like it's ripping farts down the highway.

Considering how much of the system under my 3 has rust-through, it would be wiser to just replace the whole system at once rather than piecemeal as things fall apart.
 
#50 ·
That's completely understandable. I didn't realize your we're talking about serious rust. I put the mazdaspeed exist on mine like mazdato2 mentioned but it's probably not as quiet as you said you wanted. It's got a really deep tone but it is loud. People have cut out one of the resonators and welded in a straight through muffler to help with it.
 
#52 · (Edited)
Swap is done. Cranked the new 2.5l over 3 or 4 times without the coils plugged in, plugged them in, and it literally revved right up as soon as I turned the key. A little burn-off from me handling the exhaust, but I've got 3 hours of run time and 20+ test miles on it with no leaks, no hiccups, no stalls, and no CELs. Engine running really strong, pulls away in first like it's got a fire under it's ass.

The exhaust noise is loud, not sure if it's the CAI or the weak spots/holes in the exhaust or combo of both.

We'll see how the next several hundred miles go as far as drive-ability is concerned. If the ECU can trim things to be fuel efficient enough I'll hold off on the tune. However, I have a feeling the tune is inevitable...

*edit* Just noticed the heat doesn't work. I probably installed the inlet/outlet hoses backwards on the heater core. I should have labeled those before I pulled them.
 
#55 ·
Excellent, glad to hear another success story. My swap is going slow since I'm fixing a bunch of suspension bits at the same time.

I installed the intake cam and timing chain this weekend but noticed the intake cam was difficult to set in the journals...not sure why. I triple checked the correct piston position before installing the cam timing tool.

Did any of you pull the timing tools and rotate the crank a few times before installing the crank pully and timing cover? I want to make sure the chain has consistent tension over several crank rotations.
 
#56 ·
Are you referring to the tension being put onto the cam lobes by the valves? In which case, that's normal (pushing into a spring). I checked my timing before putting the timing cover back on. You just have to make 100% sure you're back at TDC again with the tools back in position before you proceed
 
#57 · (Edited)
It's hard to set in the journals because you've got to compress the valve springs of the valves that are actuated.

I did a bunch of checks before buttoning it up completely. The valvetrain will not spin without the pulley and bolt installed because the crank is not keyed. Be careful rotating the crank without the crank bolt and pulley in place though because the valves may be open enough to bend if you ram a piston into them hard.

If you want to check it without the timing cover on- time the top end, make sure to have to crank throw rotated against the timing plug, put the crank pulley on and tighten the bolt to just enough to keep it all together while you rotate it.
 
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