I have been researching this quite a while... Have read all the posts, several books on boosting and tuning and have asked questions and am ready to start to build and boost... In the full knowledge that I know nothing hahaha.
The thread is specific to the build and
I am taking this build fairly slowly, working on one piece at a time and finishing it... This should mean that at each stage the number of untried/ untested things is limited to the immediate modifications. Sequence will probably work out like
Status
Must haves
To be tackled before going up into the 300's (HP that is)
The thread is specific to the build and
- Generic ( not build specific ) questions are asked in the form of another thread which I refer to below under "Related Q&A"
- Updates - I note them in the first post ( this one ) under "Status"
- I do make changes to the first post and I don't attempt to track or identify them
- Reliability, got to start every time and work
- Upgradeable , initially am happy to go with < 250 HP but to have solid foundations to go further ( 350 +)
- Useable, LOL have to be able to drive the damn thing when I'm done
- Aesthetics, though not ultra important do also play a part and I don't want the engine bay to look like a Frankenstein and the impact on the cabin should be minimal or at least complement vs dominate...
I am taking this build fairly slowly, working on one piece at a time and finishing it... This should mean that at each stage the number of untried/ untested things is limited to the immediate modifications. Sequence will probably work out like
- FI/C, Gauges and sensor modules ( Done )
- Exhaust Install ( Delivered and sitting in my garage )
- Engine & Tranny Install ( Done )
- Sensor's Install ( Mostly done )
- Turbo Install ( Custom work done waiting install )
- Wire/tubing management & tidy up, cuz a job aint done till the floor is clean :beer:
- GodSpeed intake is removed from the build as it removes some low end torque
- didn't key the crank, may regret this big time
- Having a beater car ( spare ) is really the right way to go ( i didn't and it hurt big time )
- As a hobbyist in a DD i only have 8 hour stints to work on stuff and that's not much and makes planning very tricky
- Tuning is a hard thing to learn and much more sensible to pay a pro to do it for u
- Stuff that initially works may fail in different weather conditions ( My catch can for example )
- Built engine + JBR engine mounts = sound deadening is required
- Always have 2 of all essentials ( Spark Plugs, MAF, O2 Sensor ) = Only way to keep the car on the road
- This Is so Much Fun
Status
- In Process
- Fix Rattles
- Realign FMIC
- Figure out IC to TB tubing
- Fuel rail install = some issues here and i need to figure out how to best to mount AKA the mounting solution does not work
- Differed
- Modify the Valve Train Cover to allow the knock sensor cable to pass thru it
- Run Knock sensor cables and power harness, mount mic and warning gauge
- apply TP FIC tune and test = Tripoint tune is not the be all and may not be the right way to go
- Next ( Post engine install )
- Install IC, exhaust and Turbo
- Benchmark and refine FIC
- have a good time lol
- Completed
- 11/2012
- PLX Display modules installed & sensor Modules tested
- Power and communications wiring from Cabin to Engine Bay ( via the hood latch firewall opening)
- 12/2012
- PLX Module housings and case modifications including power and sensor loom
- Plx module testing and tidy up....
- 1/2013
- Decided to do the MS3 Transmission swap... and ordered all ( Transmission, Clutch, axles, etc)
- Purchased fairly much all of the stuff required for the transmission swp
- Tested MS3 transmission manually
- figure out what needs to be done with the transmission feed lines
- Identify ARP flywheel bolt types and all other related and order
- Confirm the type of pilot bearing and Clutch casing bolt is required
- Source all Transmission parts ( last bit required is the drivers side axle)
- reworking the Build thread front page - posts are starting to be hard to edit from all of my devices as i think im at or near the max per post...THANK you orangevirus1 and Epic3
- Fix damage Axel metal cup,protects the oil seal
- 2/2013
- Quotes reviewed and builder selected
- Address the tripoint intake and speed tranny issue
- Catch can recieved and confirmed config
- Figure out connections for turbo Water( comming from TB cooling loop)
- Ordered FI/C device
- finalize order.
- RMA the DM100 - - - completed waiting return
- Select Trubo plumbing and turbo order
- finalize engine order.
- RMA the DM100 - - - completed and working
- Select Trubo plumbing and turbo
- Identify and oreder BPV
- paint Transmission
- Clean new TB
- 03/2013
- Clean exhaust manifold & paint = good to go
- Clean axles & paint = Good to go
- Oil pan 10AN conversion ( Engine installer will do this - Confirmed)
- Order injectors siemens 600cc
- finalize mechanic
- Secure supplies for turbo install
- Prep transmission = Mount all brackets
- 04/2013
- Inventory all engine stuff and secure docs for
- ARP bolt application
- Clutch install - Done
- MS3 transmission install
- Engine Mounts - Done
- Dry fit all tubing and turbo stuff -
- Started with the DP and exhaust = New flange and some Down Pipe adjustments required... other than that it looks good
- Finalize all sensor placements and
- Inventory all engine stuff and secure docs for
- 5/2013
- Test and finalize logging solutions ( Reopened )- Done
- Rebuild PC = done
- Build FIC plug and Play harness
- Confirm ETA for engine Shipment - Done
- Finalize mechanic and dates - Done - either the 3rd or
- 7th of June
- 07/13
- Prep GodSpeed intake ( No port or polish ... not required ... TB spacer not required )
- Benchmark post engine install
- Clean all parts
- Install FIC
- Install oil and coolant sensors and finalize cable
- prep new fuel pump and basket
- 10/13
- get extra welded as required ( Exhaust )
- Install bung for #2 os sensor and for EGT
- Install PLX sensor modules and wire
- Install MAF housing to test and finalize lb/min FIC % adjustments ( In processes )
- Install Injectors
- Install Fuel Pump
- Fix Fuel Leak
- 11/2012
Must haves
- pinned bearings
- monitoring capability ( AFR and Boost initially but want to be able to expand without having to add a million gauges)
- head studs
- pistons and rods ( replace OEM)
- welded BSD
- logging capability
- What else?
- oil filter relocation
To be tackled before going up into the 300's (HP that is)
- Cooling in general ( oil, coolant, etc)
- ECU / EMS (AEM EMS 4 - maybe)
- Whats the downside of keying the crank? = none http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=400296
- Can I get an ECU harness extension ( aka Id like to wire everything up beforehand on my sofa ) = No http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=400652
- Where do you weld the bsd = you'd weld the plate to the bottom of the block ( http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=402992 )
- Are PLX sensor modules water resistant = hell no
- Can the PLX sensor modules be housed in the engine bay? = hell yes, in a dry place....
- How many bungs ( for O2/temp) are there by default on the tripoint ? = 2 and you can ask for more...
- Do I build or buy = Build ( http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=399159)
- Knock sensor should i have one = An alarm to say its happening or something for sure.. something a little more proactive like a Safeguard is not a bad thing to have either but overkill for me(http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=405389)
- Do PLX have a knock sensor module and or recommend one = No they don't have a module and no other vendor integrates into their setup..
- Krankvent is it worth it and what does it do = IMO yes and read this http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=407691&referrerid=137986 which gets into the detail of how it works and why u may want to do this (links to a few other posts )
- Do I need a catch can... = big thread up here on this... So am not going to go old ground.... If intrested go here ... I am going with one but am a 100% sure u can get away w/o one
- ok so I think I need to run a compression ratio of 8.5:1 = sure but thats very low and many people are running in the 9's and are having no problem ( http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?p=8457273 and http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=409934 ) ... Honestly this ratio is way better in general....
- so do I bore and hone the cylinders = No, the Mazda Duratec engines have thin cylinder walls.... A bore may basically destroy the short block so just hone them.... Where did I come to this conclusion? Multiple build threads and I can't remember what ones or where but am 100% sure.....
- MS3 Transmission swap or not = Initially I decided not to swap however on review it just makes sense to do it now.. the engine will be out and all the work required to do the swap is fairly much the same as leaving the 5-speed in + reinstalled ( with the exception of the axles) ... the only downside, as ever is the money... that said the old adage "Pay me now or pay me later" stands ... here is the link to the swap thread which goes thru everything in detail and confirms that that 2006+ models don't need to replace there hubs "afaik 06+ hubs are all the same. if you have a nut on the end instead of a bolt then they will fit. mine had bolts so i needed to change. " ( http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=365696 )
- Which is my left and right? (LOL) & a tone of other transmission swap stuff I had no idea about = Left side is the Drivers side and the Right is the passenger, Transmission brackets are not interchangeable, the drivers side engine mount on the Mz3 will not work/ will need a mS3 one, bla bla bla (http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=411892)
- How do you connect the MZ3 Clutch lines to the MS3 Transmission = Reuse the lines from the MZ3, replace the connector port with the MS3 line connector and then bend the MZ3 line into place.. ( http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=411892&page=3)
- Are all the engine mounts compatible MZ3 to MS3 = No, the rear engine mount is but the transmission engine mount is not. You have to use the MS3 one (http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=411892&page=2 )
- Can the MS3 Transmission mount be just bolted on to the MZ3 stock body transmission mount points = Yes (http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=411892&page=3)
- Should I use ARP bolts for the Flywheel and or other Transmission bolt downs = Up to me... im going to do arp for the flywheel other than that we will see... Im thinking ARP, if they do it, for the bell housing / engine bolts because 1 bolt hole does not line up
Will all the ms3 Transmission bolt holes match up to the MZ3 engine block = No, one oil pan bolt hole will not - Would it be a good idea to install a MS3 oil pan ( and fix the bolt misalignment) = maybe but there as quite a bit of work involved and no reported issues from other of issues post install ( wo 1 bolt) so I say leave well alone (http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=412106)
- Radiator and cooling? what to do = really stock is fine, its a day 2 thing - IMO the radiator will need an upgrade and one that fits stock mounting positions is best (http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=412630)
- Balance the car? should I = yea probably need to move weight to the back but it will be a day 2 thing i think (http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=412302&highlight=)
- Draw thru and Blow Thru turbo setups whats the diff? = Draw through would be inlet>Maf>turbo>ic>bov>tb Vs Blow through would be inlet>turbo>ic>bov>Maf>tb
- BOV Vs BPV = BOV ( Blow Off Valve) vents to the atmosphere Vs BPV ( By pass Valve) recirculates the air ack into the intake ( after the MAF)
- What size is the TB intake? = http://www.mazda3forums.com/showthread.php?t=412986 Mz3 04/05 is 2.5" and Mz3 06 and up is 2.35"
- Where do u run the wastegate boost line from = charge pipe
- Engine install prep what to do = uninstall all aftermarket stuff... this really depends on the mechanic u go to but I suspect it will make the install less complex and reduce the number of potential "points of blame" if something goes wrong
- stock pressure sensor size? = port it 1/4" npt
- stock pressure sensor required? = No it is not.. and its removal will not cause any problems
- What do u clean an exhaust manifold with = lacquer thinner, NOT WATER as most are iron and will absorb the water and rust
- what AN size matches which Hose size = http://www.gre6.com/ansize
- How does the car work on Closed Loop operation = http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123693682-Closed-loop-vs-Open-loop-tuning
- what are the TP injectors = think they are bosch green tops... 440cc - very important to know if u heed to convert the TP fuel table to to adjust for larger injectors\
- stock injectors = 23lb/h and 242 cc/min
- Why am I not doing Water/Meth? = It never dawned on me! lol,,,, maybe when i hit the limits of the build...
- Internal Vs External wastegate which one? = Internal for me right now External WT work great and shine for big turbos and big PSI's particularly when the Internal WG is overwhelmed.. in my case I dont think either will apply and if the later does occur ( would be a surprise ) ill see boost creep and address the issue then..
- Are Torx sockets required = Yes, i think # 8 is needed for the exhaust manifold
- what gaskets are required for the turbo install = Exhaust manifold, Turbo manifold, turbo to DP and DP to exhaust gaskets...
- Are there tourqe specs for AN fittings = Yes indeed there are
- Are there tourqe specs for NTP fittings = No indeed there are not
- log log log... its really important.. do it b4 and after and understand as much as u can
- Do i need to replace the sensors ( MAF or W/B O2) = MAF maybe and O2 ( if ur over 60K) id say yes to be sure... and would go a step further u should also have backup sensors / parts for the inevitable breakage or failure
- How important is logging = Very Very Very important before and after... Before to fix any underlying issues that u may identify ( + learn what u are doing before the show starts) and after to be sure all is well....
- How important is it to have the car operating OK before Boost = Very... the car has to be operating to or better than spec... in that i mean LTFT should be perfect, no codes and or re-occurring errors
- Is it worth putting money into a good HW or S/W logging solution = IMO Yes Yes Yes invaluable
- is it worth Playing with the FIC b4 install = Yes.... being familiar with the software is a must .... figuring out how it holds together as your car is spluttering is a PIA
- Is it worth the time to install as much as u can b4 the FI install = depends, but IMO anything to do with Fuel and Air metering and or measurement and or delivery = YES ... reduces the number of issues
- Do i need to measure things = Yes u will be an expert
- How hard id it to upgrade the fuel system = Not hard but very time consuming
- Is it important to watch the coolant and oil temps = YES... Very... especially after installations
- JBR engine mount brake in time - How long = between 1500 and 3000 miles
- Do built engines take a while to break in = Yes ... id say my engine really only became useful after about 400 miles and improved all the way up to/past 2K miles