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DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics (Updated 10-21-2009)

192K views 412 replies 199 participants last post by  geeboss 
#1 · (Edited)
Edit 11/16/2021 : Sorry guys I completely forgot about this thread. My old web site died many years ago and I never set up another one.

Looks like this guide was and still could help people (I'm humbled) so I found a snapshot of the guide on the Internet Archive.

I changed my oil today, I used the opportunity to create a how to guide that lists the steps and tools required to undertake this task.

Please make note of the tools required, some tools are not found in every home toolbox, generally the hex bit socket, torque wrench and oil filter cap wrench. You can't really substitue these so make sure you have everything before you begin (I had to walk 1/2 mile to Pep Boys after I took the oil out)

Here you go.

DIY Oil Change Guide (updated 11/16/2021)

Edit 1-8-05: I have changed the URL to reflect the location of this page on my new web site. I also made a couple minor changes to the document to reflect thoughts on O-Ring replacement after 3 oil changes as well as correcting the Mazda Part Number for the filter cartridge.

Edit 6-10-05: I made some minor cosmetic changes to the page. I've added spacing, formatting and coloring that should make it easier to read. I also added some clarity about the oil filter cap wrench specification. Finally I added the part number for the filter + O-Rings kit as well as a link to buy from Mazdastuff.com.

Edit 10-21-09: First change in > 4 years, added additional information about applicability to different model years, changed materials required section to make it simpler, give a bit more information as well as list part numbers for different brands of filters. Finally I changed the license from all rights reserved (©) to a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial license (
)
 
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#8 ·
DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics

If you are buying a torque wrench, be sure you test it before use. I already had a large torque wrench but it didn't go as low as 10n-m so I had to run to pep boys and buy another smaller one.

Well I set it for the correct setting and commence to using it to tighten the plu and notice that it has starting to strip the plug (the hex socket part). I'm like WTF and stop.

I was able to test it as the low range on my big torque wrench overlapt with the high range on the little one, as it turns out the little one did not operate at all and I was putting who knows how much torque on the poor little aluminum drain plug (probably more than 25 n-m before it started to strip).

Now my filter drain plug is stripped and I will probably have a hard time getting it out next time and I will definitely need to replace it.



Also, on the oil filter cap wrench, I ended up using filter pliers to get the oil filter housing off (caused cosmetic scratches to the plastic housing) so I could bring it with me to pep boys to do a test fit. The one I found was a model A251 which is exactly 76mm, now there was a tiny amount of play so after searching for & finding the wrench online I also found the A250 (what I linked to in my guide) which is for 74 or 76mm and may work better.
 
#11 ·
DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics

Cause I don't trust anyone but myself to do the oil, certianly I wouldn't trust Wal-Mart.

If I can get Costco to carry Mobil1 0w20 that will drop the price of the oil a lot (probably $1.50 a quart) plus from now on I plan on replacing the O-Rings only every other time.

Does Wal-Mart use Mobil1 or do they use a fake synthetic like Syntec, Synpower?
 
#13 ·
DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics

Now I remember another thread mentioning there were two different types of filters on the 3's. They had started originally with a cartridge and then switched to the screw on. Does this sound familiar to anyone? I will try to find the thread. Anyway, does this change apply to the cartridge or the newer screw on? Thanx.

Edit: Found the other thread...
http://mazda3forums.com/viewtopic.php?t=3583&highlight=cartridge
nm, seems to be a cartridge.

Craig
 
#15 ·
DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics

Good job... The cartridge filter type looks similar to the one that was on my VW VR6. I used to take it to the local Valvoline place and they never had any trouble. Of course, I suspect there are more VR6's out there than 2.3 M3's right now.

One thing I noticed, or maybe it's just early, but ain't the picture in step 7 (the drain plug close up) upside down?
 
#16 ·
DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics

I have a january build 3, and my filter looks to be a cartridge style filter. As far as looking without taking off the cowling. Maybe the ones on the boat now have screw on types.
 
#17 ·
DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics

UnixGeezer said:
One thing I noticed, or maybe it's just early, but ain't the picture in step 7 (the drain plug close up) upside down?
Well I was lying on my back under the car trying to get a good view of the train plug, not sure what constitutes "upside down" from that postition. :)

Mostly I wanted to clearly illustrate for everyone what the drain plug looks like.
 
#18 ·
DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics

I don't want to sound strange or not car-techy, but it costs me $21 to have the oil changed at the dealer. I use to do the change on my old car all the time, but buying the oil, filter, ring...seems like $21 is cheaper?


Thought.

Buhbye
 
#22 ·
DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics

The big plate that you have to take off to get to the filter and drain plug. Is it required for that to be on? Is it just a scrap guard?
 
#23 ·
DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics

Definitely not required but I think it will mess with aerodynamics if you remove it. It's not too much of a pain to take it off and put it back every oil change.
 
#24 ·
DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics

I just realized that I posted the following in the "other" non-sticky thread. So I'll just copy it here:

Materials/Tools Used:

Filter: filter and o-ring bought at mazda dealer. didn't get the small o-ring. Will do that next time.
Ramp: Blitz 8000, bought at AutoZone for $20
Wrench: 76mm 14-point oil filter cap wrench
Other: 17mm socket, 6mm hex key - I am only listing the not-so-common tools here.

Special thanks to the OP for his recommendation of the Blitz ramp, the low-profile design really saved the day. Lets me work in safety and comfort. Plenty of room. Other ramps would have hit the bottom lip of the bumper. And plastic never rusts or clangs!!! It's also asphalt-friendly for those of us without concrete driveways.

Just to clarify, the cartridge cap is a 76mm 14-notch. I wasn't sure because there is also 15 notch available. It fit a bit loose, so I guess 74mm may also fit. But 14 notches is it. 15 notch will not fit.

General Observations:

This is without a doubt one of the most frustrating car to do an oil change on, and I've been doing oil changes on family's and friend's cars for over ten years. There is a big hole on the bottom cover which was obviously put in place so that the oil filter can be changed without removing the cover. But it is off by a few inches. Will Mazda offer a free replacement bottom cover when they get this issue corrected? I wonder.

The drain plug on the filter is neat, but it doesn't work very well in getting all the oil out. There is still a lot of dripping going on as you continue to unscrew the cartridge. Granted none of the oil made it onto the floor but I can do that with any oil change, even the ones where the filter is mounted on the side of the engine. I still ended up with a lot of oil on my hands.

Center-pop clips are evil, and I am glad there's only two of them used on the bottom cover. They are evil because once enough pebbles and debri gets into them, the only way to pop the center pin is to break the thing. This won't last beyond a few oil changes. With 7 screws holding the cover on, I won't miss them whey they are gone.

Those two little hooks towards the back on either side of the bottom cover: who's the pea-brain that came up with that design? I give it two oil changes before both get broken off by the monkies at the dealer. Were they really necessary? The cover is already held on by the plastic over-lap tabs.

For anyone who may be looking for another view of changing the oil:

http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=32&Itemid=35

It is for a Mazda 6i, but the steps for draining the oil and changing the filter are the same.

Other observations while doing oil change:

*Back of the radiator cover reads "FoMoCo" in fancy lettering.
*Lots of shiny aluminum down there.
*There was a slight amount of grease on the bracket that holds the center drive-shaft. I think this is just grease from the bushing/fitting overflowing because it was purposefully (correctly) overfilled at the factory. It did glisten slightly.
*That chassis heat-shield is shiny!!!
*Bottom of the car is exceptionally clean, almost perfectly flat front to back, even the suspension members are flush, except for the roll bar mounts in the rear.

Have fun guys, don't let the dealer change your oil for this car. There are too many things that can go wrong. They may...

* round the drain bolt nut taking it off
* over-torque and/or strip the drain bolt putting it back on
* strip the hex key hole taking it off or putting it back on
* tear the o-ring putting it on
* leave dirt in the threads of the cartridge cap
* cross-thread the cartridge cap
* round the cartridge cap
* crack the cartridge cap
* crush the filter element
* break the center-pop pins
* break the bottom cover side hook pins
* do any of the other hundreds of things that may damage, scratch, or otherwise piss you off.
 
#25 ·
Oil Filter Adapter

I saw from another forum that mazda dealerships now have an adapter that retrofits the cartridge type housing into a regular oil filter that the other 99% of the world uses. They even gave a part number (two acutally, there is a gasket that goes with it) and the hell if I can find it now. It's so frusterating. It was either mazdaworld.org or edmunds.com, but I would put my money on the first one. The price was quoted to be around $15 so this would definately make up from having to go to the dealership every time you wanted to change your own oil and spend $15 on their rip-off parts. If I can find that part number, then I will report it to the mazda3forums.com audience. Someone might want to give thier parts department a call to see if they know about such a thing. Hope it helps!
 
#26 ·
DIY Oil Change: How-To Guide w/Pics

Personally even if such an adapter were available I would stay with the cartridge. Less waste and should be cheaper as they become more common.
 
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