Just bought a 08 Mazda 3 Hatch - FMVperformance.com : The site for all your Ford Mazda and Volvo needs
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-06-2018, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
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Just bought a 08 Mazda 3 Hatch

Hey everyone I'm Cameron and I just bought an 08 Mazda 3 hatchback to use as a daily driver for the next year while I'm in nursing school.

I figured I'd go ahead and join the forum to get some insight and help with current and future issues that may arise.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-07-2018, 12:06 AM
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Welcome aboard.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-07-2018, 07:26 AM
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Take care of it, you'll find it will do you well.

About the only things thing that is guaranteed to fail is the passenger side motor mount. Costs $50 for a new one, and is easily repaired during an oil change.

Speaking of oil changes, be sure to use top quality oil and oil filters. Your car will need either 5W-20 or 0W-20. Check the oil cap for the right weight. 2008 was about the time they switched from one to another, that's why you need to check.

For oil, use Mobil1 Extended, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, Amsoil Signature, or Idemitsu Zepro. For filters, Wix, Purolator One, or OEM.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-07-2018, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by theblooms View Post
Take care of it, you'll find it will do you well.

About the only things thing that is guaranteed to fail is the passenger side motor mount. Costs $50 for a new one, and is easily repaired during an oil change.

Speaking of oil changes, be sure to use top quality oil and oil filters. Your car will need either 5W-20 or 0W-20. Check the oil cap for the right weight. 2008 was about the time they switched from one to another, that's why you need to check.

For oil, use Mobil1 Extended, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, Amsoil Signature, or Idemitsu Zepro. For filters, Wix, Purolator One, or OEM.
Thank you guys! The car has very high mileage but looks great inside and out and seems to run really well.

The only leaking I can see is coming from where the manual trans bolts up to the engine. It's not bad enough to leave any dripping on the ground but the trans is wet where it seeps from the gasket.

I just changed the oil last night. 4.5 quarts of 5w20 mobile 1 high mileage and a filter.

I will be changing plugs tomorrow and over the next couple of weeks will probably change power steering and manual trans oil

The only things I'm concerned about right now is the AC and the sick sounding horn LOL. The AC doesn't get cold and I don't hear the compressor kicking on. I turned the clutch by hand last night and it spins so I know it's not locked up.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-07-2018, 04:41 PM
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For plugs, ONLY ONLY ONLY use NGK OE Laser Iridiums. The part number you're looking for is LTR5BI-13. Not even kidding, don't even try to use a different plug than that. Yeah, they're expensive at about $12 each, but don't matter, it's the correct part for your car. Besides, when you think about the fact they are rated to last 100,000 miles, the price is far more palatable.

For the manual transmission fluid, use Redline MT-90. Again, expensive, but it's the right stuff.

For the A/C, switch the relay from the horn to the compressor in the fuse box under the hood. They are the same part, and right next to one another. You may get lucky and it's just a bad relay! Or, because your horn is sick sounding, both relays may actually be bad. I think there's actually three relays under there, and I *think* the third is the same as the horn and A/C, but verify that. The third relay, I can't remember what it controls.

Good luck!
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-07-2018, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by theblooms View Post
For plugs, ONLY ONLY ONLY use NGK OE Laser Iridiums. The part number you're looking for is LTR5BI-13. Not even kidding, don't even try to use a different plug than that. Yeah, they're expensive at about $12 each, but don't matter, it's the correct part for your car. Besides, when you think about the fact they are rated to last 100,000 miles, the price is far more palatable.
OE plugs are rated for 75K miles, not 100K. I ran NGK single platinum plugs for several years (about 40K miles). A month ago I decided to man up and get the Laser Iridiums since everywhere says they work better. No noticeable difference, wish I had gone with a double platinum or double iridium rather than the Laser Iridiums which are a single iridium plug.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-08-2018, 12:03 AM
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OE plugs are rated for 75K miles, not 100K. I ran NGK single platinum plugs for several years (about 40K miles). A month ago I decided to man up and get the Laser Iridiums since everywhere says they work better. No noticeable difference, wish I had gone with a double platinum or double iridium rather than the Laser Iridiums which are a single iridium plug.
I was going by this:

NGK Laser Iridium plugs have iridium center and a Platinum ground electrodes. If installed in a regular engine, they would likely last longer than most people keep their car (barring any motor problems that can cause premature plug death). All Laser Iridium plugs are an OEM design, made for a specific engine. Some feature a special resistor or electrode design, depending on the OE requirements. In their OE application, NGK's Laser Iridium plugs typically last 80-100k miles.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-08-2018, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
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The plugs that I was sold are NGK LTR5IX-11 are those not OEM?
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-08-2018, 10:36 AM
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The plugs that I was sold are NGK LTR5IX-11 are those not OEM?
Nope. Those are the Iridium IX's, not the Lasers. Two different plugs.
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