2004 Mazda 3 2.3 to 2.5 swap in progress - FMVperformance.com : The site for all your Ford Mazda and Volvo needs
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post #1 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-11-2018, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Question 2004 Mazda 3 2.3 to 2.5 swap in progress

Update: See this link for a thorough 2.5 swap how to.
https://www.mazda3forums.com/61-powe.../topics/692793


In the process of putting a 2015 Fusion 2.5 with 10K miles into 2004 3S. Looking for technical recommendations. Running Fusion intake and 2.5 T/B from '09 Mazda 6 and installing a M-PACT stage 1 clutch from Rockauto.

Looking for ideas on hooking up stock purge line to Fusion intake as it has a purge valve bolted to that location.

Ideas on hooking up VTCS and VIAC solenoids to missing vacuum ports on Fusion intake. I'm guessing the one solenoid just needs to be connected to the connector with no vacuum lines hooked up as the actuator it controls has no connector on it giving feedback to the ECU. The other solenoid controlled actuator does have a connector so I assume the ECU needs to see actuation even if it doesn't do anything as it won't be controlling the Fusion engine.

On the other hand, I would be interested in a ECU tune that would eliminate that from the ECU program. Does anybody have any experience with having done that or is it even possible for a 2004?
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Last edited by rickkari; 05-05-2019 at 12:01 AM. Reason: changed user profile info; added link to great how to thread
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post #2 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-18-2018, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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Done with swap

I got a response for this from a youtube reply. Here's what I did to hook these up:

Variable tumbler system(the one that has the actuator with the connector that gives feedback to ECU)- Hooked up solenoid securing it to harness with tie strap and securing the actuator in the same place it was on the 2.3 intake after grinding off alignment pegs and cutting off top mounting area and arm flush with body of actuator. Works properly even though it doesn't do anything to the Fusion intake and doesn't set CEL.

Variable intake air system- Hooked up solenoid and tie strapped to harness. Ran small vacuum line loop to the nipples on the solenoid to keep out debris. Didn't install or connect the actuator as there is no feedback to ECU. The CEL stays off as it only looks for short or open to solenoid and just connecting it satisfies the ECU.

Got vacuum source by cutting off half of the Fusion purge solenoid, removing guts, drilling out the hole in the solenoid and tapping it with a 1/8 NPT tap and installing a 1/4" 1/8 NPT threaded nipple which gave me two nipples on the purge valve body; One for the purge line from the 2.3 that I cut and connected with a vacuum hose between the two and a vacuum hose between the 1/4" nipple and VTS solenoid.

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post #3 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-19-2018, 11:46 AM
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So happy you did this. You are the first on this forum to document a Fusion engine swap later than 2012. Someone got a 2012 and claims that it was actually a 2013 engine, but you have a known 2015 engine. This is great news because the 2010-2012 Ford engines will become harder to come by with low miles on them.

I did a 2012 Fusion swap this year and my 'new' engine had 20k miles on it.

You can contact IFIXTHINGS for an adaptor plate that is used with the throttle body and has all the necessary vacuum ports and such to eliminate any CEL.

I'm using a 2.5L mazda TB and IM, so I have all the tumble valve and intake runner hardware in use.
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post #4 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-19-2018, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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I just hooked everything up like I posted and there is no CEL. The one actuator that hooks to the lower level on the 2.3 intake isn't even needed because there is no feedback there to the ECU. Simply plugging in the solenoid is enough to keep the CEL off. I priced out the adapter and it was pricey so I just modified the purge valve to eliminate the electronics and install a nipple to gain a port for the tumble valve actuation.I should post a picture.

Also as far as I could tell the 2.5 is the same through 2017 and most likely 2018 as well as the 2nd generation Fusion is listed as 2013 to present and it still has a 2.5. The only modification I had to do was splice the VVT solenoid connector from the Fusion engine(harness came with it) because of a difference between the two.

I priced out Mazda 2.5 intakes with the thought of keeping the Tumble and Intake Air systems operational but they were pricey. I opted to just do what I posted to keep off the CEL.

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Last edited by rickkari; 02-20-2018 at 11:25 AM.
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post #5 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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2.3 to 2.5 modifications

Just wanted to share and show the modifications done to install the 10K miles 2015 Fusion 2.5 into my 2004 3 hatch 5 speed.

- Picture of completed swap with 2.3 cover. Note no oil cap through hole. Used Fusion valve cover so oil cap and dipstick are under the cover. Blocked off 2.3 dipstick at pan by cutting old dipstick 1/2 above block, filling the cut tube with the Toyota engine sealer I used on pan and timing cover, then crimping edge of tube shut and installing it with the sealer into the oil tube hole.

-Picture of engine with cover off showing the Fusion engine with junkyard writing on valve cover. It has their stock number with erroneous 2016 Fusion written. It is actually a 2015 as the identification on their tag on the block as well as running the VIN on the tag verified. Cost $546 out the door with no core at N&S auto parts in Nashville, TN. Came with harness. A plus as I had to splice one connector.

- Picture of VVT solenoid with Fusion connector spliced in. I believe 2013 and up have this different connector. Maybe 2012 also. Bonus if you get harness with engine. If not, you can buy the connector on Rockauto. Also, I plugged the timing cover oil passage for the old VVT setup on the 2.3 timing cover before installing it. It will seal against Fusion block with old seal but I wanted to verify there will never be a issue with pressure loss to the VVT. Just a belt and suspenders mindset.

- Picture of how I modified the purge line. Cut off old connector end and connected it with 1/4 inch fuel hose to 1/4 to 3/8 adapter going to 3/8 hose connected to modified Fusion purge valve.

- Picture of modified Fusion purge valve. Cut off about 1/2 inch of end of purge valve and separated middle of purge valve at the molded union of the purge valve. If you are looking at one you will know what I mean. Gutted the purge valve except for the metal hosing that is left as it is molded into the plastic housing. Drilled and tapped hole where the plunger originally went through and tapped it with a 1/8 npt tap. Installed a 1/8 npt threaded 1/4 inch nipple into hole with JB weld on the threads and then JB welded the two halves back together. Painted black after so it wouldn't look so obvious. Result: 2 vacuum nipples from one vaccum source so I could hook up the Tumble valve solenoid as well as the original purge line as mentioned above. Total cost: some JB weld, black spray paint and a $4.95 nipple from Ebay. Connected 1/4 inch fuel hose to nipple and then 1/4 to 3/16 adapter and then connected the vacuum hose from Tumble solenoid.

- Picture of Variable Intake Air solenoid(left) and Variable Tumble Valve solenoid(right). Notice that the valve on the left is doing nothing as there is no feedback to ECU for the actuator it controls. All the ECU needs to see is that it is hooked up to keep off CEL. I looped a piece of vaccum line to keep water/dust out. Could use caps but didn't have any. The Tumble valve(controlled shutters on 2.3 intake) is hooked up like the 2.3 except that the actuator isn't hooked to anything as the Fusion intake just has nice wide open flowing ports. The CEL stays off though because the actuator still is controlled by the ECU and still sends the on/off signal it looks for although it does nothing in reality.

I know others have done this swap and there is a lot of info on the long "2.3 to 2.5 success" thread. I just wanted to bring these things out as these are the details that I had to think and decide about as I did it. If I need to be clearer about something let me know.

There is a guy that makes adapters for some of these things to the tune of $120 to $135. What I did was almost free and I got the satisfaction of doing the fabricating myself. You can also do 2.5 Mazda intakes that still have the two working systems mentioned with the benefit of having the right port flow between intake and head(You will have to run the 2.3 shutter valve actuator as it has the proper voltage range for the ECU verses the 2.5 actuator. See other threads for the specifics). You can also run the 2.3 manifold with an adapter sold on Ebay that makes it all easy. The drawback is power loss due to the smaller 2.3 intake ports. I was originally going that route until I saw the difference between the ports in person.
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Last edited by rickkari; 04-04-2018 at 05:03 PM.
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post #6 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 10:36 PM
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Very nicely done! I was too timid to stray from the proven formula of what others had already done. My engine swap was the biggest project I had done in a couple of decades and at times I felt I was in way over my head.

But now that I've done it I would do it again in a heartbeat. And I'd be ok with modifications like what you've done because I now understand (mostly) how all the different valves, sensors, actuators, etc. are supposed to work.
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post #7 of 97 (permalink) Old 02-26-2018, 04:55 PM
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This is amazing. I am very impressed and inspired to go through the same build. I'm in Toronto, Canada and getting close to the 250,000KM mark. My future plans include dropping in a Ford Fusion / Mazda 3 2.5L engine into my 2006 Mazda3s. I can't wait to start this project in the future. Thank you for this great contribution to our Mazda3 community. Hats off to you my friend. Cheers.
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post #8 of 97 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 01:35 AM Thread Starter
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Smile 1 tank of gas update

Over 300 miles since swap. No Check engine light or issues. Great power and fun to drive. Hopefully I can install a DC Sports cold air intake in the near future. Really supposed to liven it some more.

The 2.5 swap was the best thing hands down. Thanks to all the guys on this forum who have done it and posted valuable advice and comments.

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post #9 of 97 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickkari View Post
Quick engagement of clutch Lasted about 70 plus miles then adjusted itself back to high engagement. Learning to live with it.

Over 300 miles since swap. No Check engine light or issues. Great power and fun to drive. Hopefully I can install a DC Sports cold air intake in the near future. Really supposed to liven it some more.

The 2.5 swap was the best thing hands down. Thanks to all the guys on this forum who have done it and posted valuable advice and comments.
What kind of gas mileage are you seeing? I kept my daughter's car for the first 600 miles so that I could do another oil change prior to giving the car back to her. I got just over 30mpg on back-to-back fill-ups. Of course I was trying to put miles on the car instead of doing a lot of stop-and-go city driving, but I was quite pleased there wasn't a drop off in fuel economy.
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post #10 of 97 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Datsun1600 View Post
What kind of gas mileage are you seeing? I kept my daughter's car for the first 600 miles so that I could do another oil change prior to giving the car back to her. I got just over 30mpg on back-to-back fill-ups. Of course I was trying to put miles on the car instead of doing a lot of stop-and-go city driving, but I was quite pleased there wasn't a drop off in fuel economy.
My 2004 3S is rated for 25/32 MPG stock. I'm running 215/45/18 tires on Mazdaspeed 6 wheels. They are 1.5 inches taller than the stock 205/50/17. That means my speedo and odometer will read slower/less than the stock tires so MPG calculation will be a little off.

I bought the car last June blown up and it sat with 1/2 a tank until I started diving it this month. I ran that tank low and added 13.4 gallons of 93 octane to make sure the fuel left in the tank would mix and be good. On that tank driving around town with no interstate driving I got 25.7 MPG. I did a lot of jack rabbit takeoffs during that tank. It's hard to stay out of the throttle being that it is one of the funnest, not the fastest, cars I've driven.(although it is quick for what it is)

I don't know what I would get on the open road but I suspect it should be around 30 MPG.

I wonder if a 2.5 like yours with the Mazda 2.5 intake and stock intake components is more efficient. I've noticed on cold start driving slow in the neighborhood in third gear that it surges slightly(so slight that my wife probably wouldn't notice it as well as most people) and also when the cruise is on around 50 MPH in fifth gear going down a slight grade when the engine is coasting. I feel like both scenarios may be due to the ECU controlling the 2 intake systems that aren't hooked up. Based on what I read on the theory of operation of them it kind of fits. It doesn't set a CEL but makes me wonder if it effects MPG a little. As far as power, it's great.

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Last edited by rickkari; 03-21-2018 at 12:43 PM.
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