2004 Mazda 3 2.3 to 2.5 swap in progress - Page 9 - FMVperformance.com : The site for all your Ford Mazda and Volvo needs
 26Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #81 of 97 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 01:51 PM
Moped Rider
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by rickkari View Post
I recently did a 2.5 swap on my bosses' son's 2007 Mazda 6. I went the intake adapter setup with the stock intake using the adapter I originally bought for my Mazda 3 swap just to keep it simple. I believe it ran better than my 2.5 swap using the Fusion intake that I did on my '04 3. I personally believe if i did it again I would do the adapter and keep the stock 2.3 intake. The Mazda 6 ran that good. Just my thoughts from doing 2 of them. The 2.5 Mazda intake utilizing the IMRC components may run better. My thought is that my '04 still attempted to use the IMRC components which I hooked up as stated in my thread to keep off the light, but didn't do anything as the Ford intake didn't have them. I think it may have affected low speed torque by not having the runners being tuned by the ECU to optimize power that the system is designed to do. That is why the 2.5 Mazda intake with the IMRC may be the best option.

Feedback welcomed. Just trying to give the best running option to new guys doing swap.
Think I'll go this route then.
c3hutson is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #82 of 97 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 02:51 PM
Moped Rider
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 11
Are universal pully tools sufficient for holding the crank in place when removing the crank pulley?
c3hutson is offline  
post #83 of 97 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
Grand Am Series
 
rickkari's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Spring Hill, TN
Posts: 297
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by c3hutson View Post
Are universal pully tools sufficient for holding the crank in place when removing the crank pulley?
Use a impact wrench if possible to remove the bolt and the pulley pulls off easily. If you are doing it with hand tools, you can use a holding tool that works to break the bolt free. Don't know if a universal holder will work. Always used the impact wrench method.

Jesus Saves
rickkari is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #84 of 97 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 05:35 PM
Moped Rider
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by rickkari View Post
Use a impact wrench if possible to remove the bolt and the pulley pulls off easily. If you are doing it with hand tools, you can use a holding tool that works to break the bolt free. Don't know if a universal holder will work. Always used the impact wrench method.
I have a kobalt electric impact. I just assumed it would turn the pullet
c3hutson is offline  
post #85 of 97 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
Grand Am Series
 
rickkari's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Spring Hill, TN
Posts: 297
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by c3hutxson View Post
I have a kobalt electric impact. I just assumed it would turn the pullet
You will need to hold the crank when installing the pulley. I assume you have the timing kit that locks the crank and cams in the top dead center position. There are good videos on youtube about timing the engine and torquing the crank bolt. See the ones by Baxroc I believe. He has a bunch. They are long but informative.

As far as swapping the timing cog, I had the 2.3 on a engine stand for tear down, set it to top dead center with the timing tools. I scribed a mark on the top of the cog as a reference. I marked the cog and cam on the new engine at the top so I could line up the cog on the 2.5 cam. Prior to pulling cam to remove cog, I used a electrical wall outlet cover and slid it under one of the legs on the cog that was near the inside edge of the top of the head and marked where the edge of it was on the outlet cover with a marker. This was now my gauge tool to make sure the cog was in the right place on the other cam/engine.

I pulled the cog off the old cam with a 3 inch 3 jaw puller. Paying attention to my scribe marks on the 2.3 cog and the 2.5 cam, I tapped the cog on with a 12 point 32mm 1/2 drive socket that worked perfectly. Once installed back in the 2.5 and everything timed up, I used my homemade gauge tool to check the cog position. It wasn't exactly right so I used a punch and slowly tapped on one of the cog legs to "spin" the cog into the exact position. Hopefully this makes sense. Looking at the engine and reading this will make sense. There is also someone on the long 2.5 swap thread that is linked to in here that I believe has pictures on doing this with a ground down nail that he used as a gauge.
VWandDodge and StrangeDuck like this.

Jesus Saves
rickkari is offline  
post #86 of 97 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 10:53 AM
Moped Rider
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by rickkari View Post
You will need to hold the crank when installing the pulley. I assume you have the timing kit that locks the crank and cams in the top dead center position. There are good videos on youtube about timing the engine and torquing the crank bolt. See the ones by Baxroc I believe. He has a bunch. They are long but informative.

As far as swapping the timing cog, I had the 2.3 on a engine stand for tear down, set it to top dead center with the timing tools. I scribed a mark on the top of the cog as a reference. I marked the cog and cam on the new engine at the top so I could line up the cog on the 2.5 cam. Prior to pulling cam to remove cog, I used a electrical wall outlet cover and slid it under one of the legs on the cog that was near the inside edge of the top of the head and marked where the edge of it was on the outlet cover with a marker. This was now my gauge tool to make sure the cog was in the right place on the other cam/engine.

I pulled the cog off the old cam with a 3 inch 3 jaw puller. Paying attention to my scribe marks on the 2.3 cog and the 2.5 cam, I tapped the cog on with a 12 point 32mm 1/2 drive socket that worked perfectly. Once installed back in the 2.5 and everything timed up, I used my homemade gauge tool to check the cog position. It wasn't exactly right so I used a punch and slowly tapped on one of the cog legs to "spin" the cog into the exact position. Hopefully this makes sense. Looking at the engine and reading this will make sense. There is also someone on the long 2.5 swap thread that is linked to in here that I believe has pictures on doing this with a ground down nail that he used as a gauge.
Awesome info, thanks. I found a 2015 fusion engine for the swap: 2.5L, VIN 7 (8th digit). It does come with the wiring harness so I will have the connector for the VVT. I am going to use the IM/TB from the 2.3 with the milan adapter.
c3hutson is offline  
post #87 of 97 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 11:28 AM
Moped Rider
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 11
Anyone happen to know the bolt size for putting the fusion engine on an engine stand?
c3hutson is offline  
post #88 of 97 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
Grand Am Series
 
rickkari's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Spring Hill, TN
Posts: 297
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by c3hutson View Post
Anyone happen to know the bolt size for putting the fusion engine on an engine stand?
I can't remember the exact size as I write at home, my 4 bolts that I used are at work. I put 3 bolts in threaded transmission bell housing holes and used a bolt and nut on the rear(exhaust) side of engine at the lower position where there are no threads. The thread size and pitch are the same on the 2.3 and 2.5. I just calculated the length I needed by measuring the engine stand flange and the depth of the bell housing bolt holes. I got mine at Home Depot. Just matched the thread with a bell housing bolt I brought with me. I put large washers on the bolts also.

Just a tip when tightening the crank bolt with that last quarter turn. I did it on the engine stand. I threaded two extra flywheel bolts(from the 2.3 as the 2.5 came with them also) into the crank and used a pry bar in between the two bolts and against the engine stand flange to hold it. Worked great. Just thread them in far enough to get a good bite. They will not bend. Pretty tough bolts. Also, you may already know, but the final torque should be with all the TDC tools removed including the 10mm holding bolt. I also made a homemade pulley holder to help keep the pulley from turning. It wasn't strong enough for the quarter turn but did help on the initial 75 foot pounds.
VWandDodge likes this.

Jesus Saves
rickkari is offline  
post #89 of 97 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 11:59 PM Thread Starter
Grand Am Series
 
rickkari's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Spring Hill, TN
Posts: 297
Garage
YouTube videos on recent 2.5 swap

Posted 6 videos on YouTube about my last 2.5 swap on the '07 Mazda 6. Details the usual technical info and some things I learned. May help put some visuals to all the posts on here concerning some of the steps and differences on early and late Gen 1 3's and 6's and early and late Fusion 2.5's.

Part 1:

Part 2:

Part 3:

Part 4:

Part 5:

Part 6:
VWandDodge and StrangeDuck like this.

Jesus Saves
rickkari is offline  
post #90 of 97 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 06:09 PM
Moped Rider
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 11
Crap.... I forgot to mark the camshaft sprockets prior to swapping them. I decided to just swap the sprocket instead of swapping the timing cogs. Did I totally screw myself here?
c3hutson is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  FMVperformance.com : The site for all your Ford Mazda and Volvo needs > Misc > Introductions

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the FMVperformance.com : The site for all your Ford Mazda and Volvo needs forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2004 Mazda Mazda 3 Hatchback Idling Issue FinestOriginal Introductions 1 12-16-2016 04:39 AM
Mazda 3 auto to auto swap arsalan500 Introductions 0 11-28-2016 12:24 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome