Penetrating Oil Showdown Demonstration - FMVperformance.com : The site for all your Ford Mazda and Volvo needs
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-05-2018, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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Penetrating Oil Showdown Demonstration

No idea how this appeared in my YouTube feed, but it's well presented and very interesting.


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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-05-2018, 11:50 AM
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Nicely done video but very subjective and not really in a controlled testing fashion by any means?
I really always suggest to look up what is in the chemicals you use.
All is not as advertised.....and yes even "secret ingredients" (proprietary) can be found (at least in the USA because of stringent regulation and in some cases State usage requirements like in CA) if you know where to look for them. Once you actaully see what is in some of the "snake oils" so to say you start to wonder how much truth and fiction regarding the claims of what they can do are really true to fact?

I use pretty much all of what the video shows for various things (none all work well all the time) and even a couple that are strangely not included. The one for me that really kicks "arse" on most stubborn fasteners is GIBBS.

Last edited by M3RacerX; 08-05-2018 at 11:52 AM.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-05-2018, 02:35 PM
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Interesting methodology and he at least attempted to be scientific, but IMO he chose a bizarre collection of products to test. I believe that the lanolin-based Fluid Film is marketed as a rust inhibitor, and makes no claim to be a penetrating oil at all. And why in the world did he include straight brake fluid, when he should have chosen a few other very popular commercial fluids which are specifically designed and sold as penetrating oils. Has to make me wonder if this was somehow 'sponsored', either directly or else under the table.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-05-2018, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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How much more controlled do you want? I didn't see his first video but, based on his comments from feedback by viewers, he modified his tests to be more controlled and objective. I have a lot of experience with removing stubborn fasteners from rusty old Volkswagens and have acquired many tips from my own experience and from others.

One technique I've heard of is to melt a candle or even a crayon on the threads of the stuck fastener. Some guys believe any fastener will be properly treated if sprayed with gobs and gobs of penetrant. Unfortunately, that's not the case. A lot of people advocate the 50/50 mix of acetone with ATF, but I am dubious the mixture works since the two substances tend to separate almost immediately after they are mixed. Straight ATF should be enough to accomplish the task. I sometimes go the extra step of heating the fastener with a propane torch and then applying penetrant since the liquid will immediately evaporate and cool the part. This tends to help draw the liquid into the threads.

I figured it would be a helpful video, especially since the one penetrant didn't appear to seep into the rusted threads. I thought his effort of mixing all the penetrants and applying the combination to the rusted part was ridiculous.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-05-2018, 08:26 PM
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Some of us that often need to remove badly deteriorated and stubborn fasteners will tell you there is NEVER a one product wonder. Some times it takes a few other methods that are manually introduced and not chemically applied to hope that a miracle will happen and a badly rusted fasten will surrender. .

As far as I see it the video is a person who has fallen to the "KOOL_AID" of sea foam.


I keep everything on hand to throw at project and even seafoam has some uses if anything else to was my hands when greased up.

I have a freind who is a chemist and also a Gear Head Hot Rodder. I often have him take and do a complete analysis of something (questionable snake oil ) to see what he finds out about what is truly in a product and what if any true benefits it could have
I DONT talk about what he finds out but occasionally I hint at things. Let me just say. The video is just lacking the basic steps in scientific methodology.

And another funny comment....ATF if a high detergent anti foaming and some with seal softening additives....., mixing a chemical with a category of thinner or Xylene defeat both chemicals properties.

I try to stay none biased and experience things before I respond about things. I count 6 cans....
20180805_171456_resize.jpg

20180805_171506_resize.jpg
This picture is nothing...I have more supplies to do project in my personal garage then we have at the shop.

Last edited by M3RacerX; 08-05-2018 at 08:34 PM.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-08-2018, 03:17 AM
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Best penetration oils:


1) Firearms oil - very expensive
2) PBlaster - soaked O2 sensor for a couple days and it comes off easily.

Some engine mount bolts has Loctite, which needs a blow torch to loosen up.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-08-2018, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrb View Post
Best penetration oils:


1) Firearms oil - very expensive I use Marvel Mystery Oil will not harm any "normal" part and always spend a little extra for cleaner quality ammo even when just "plinkin" . I might also might add that with some finishes used and soft parts "FOs" are not advised to be in contact with.
2) PBlaster - soaked O2 sensor for a couple days and it comes off easily. There is NOT one product that will do the job every time. MMM will do the same thing as PBlaster in your example and perhaps a little less $$. And MMM has many more more practical usages


Some engine mount bolts has Loctite, which needs a blow torch to loosen up. Or EXTREME cold and or impact vibrations.
BLUE response

I did like your response 1.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-08-2018, 12:44 PM
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I work on salt belt vehicles and the only thing I've had work consistently to free stuck nuts and bolts is the oxy acetylene torch. What I want to see is a test where the bolts will snap off of nothing is done, that would be the real penetrating oil test for me.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-11-2018, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrb View Post
Best penetration oils:


1) Firearms oil - very expensive
2) PBlaster - soaked O2 sensor for a couple days and it comes off easily.

Some engine mount bolts has Loctite, which needs a blow torch to loosen up.
PBlaster with propane heat (when needed) has always been my go-to. I recently switched to Liquid-Wrench and achieved better results. I used to live in the Rust Belt and know Matt's frustrations and sure don't miss those issues.

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